FMF: Deals, Discussions, and Reviews
2010.12.17 14:39 FMF: Deals, Discussions, and Reviews
The place for coupons, discounts, sales, and deals when it comes to male fashion. Visit the Wiki for more information regarding guides, stores, and tailoring help.
2013.06.12 08:17 coconutwaters PS4Deals
Join us to find out and share game deals for the Playstation 4. Save money on games and accessories here!
2013.12.08 21:17 Klope62 Nintendo 3DS Deals
This subreddit is about finding and sharing the best deals for Nintendo's 3DS family of consoles, games, and accessories!
2023.03.30 07:17 nunatak16 6 day loop in the WP Fold
The Fold (or Reef further north) is a very long wrinkle in the earth in Utah. Steep, rugged and remote this loop is centered around the southern end of the Fold with weird domes and spires on the east side and dramatic sandstone canyons cutting into the long sloping west side, before they spill into the E.
The route focused on climbing the two high points in the area in addition to linking a series of hard to get in and out of canyons, all while doing a big loop.
On the 70 mile route we found no maintained trails but did follow a game path for an hour or so on day 4. We saw no one else, despite this is the busy hiking season in the canyons.
Driving the last two hours to our east side start we encountered only four vehicles, a couple of which were a tow truck pulling out a wanna-be overlander. As Brian like to say when bouncing us across some remote mesa in his beat up Ford Exploder: “Overlanding? It’s called car camping. Been doing it forever“.
The trailhead was decided for us when the road ahead suddenly was completely washed out by a flash flood from the day before. We loaded our packs and soon descended steeply into the significant crevice of HC Canyon before the 2000’ climb to a divide in the Fold. Eventually down in the canyons on the other side things got complex.
Several days later we again emerged on top of the Fold but much farther north. After a day and a half traversing the lofty spine we picked our way down a remote part with striking arches and deep pools to finish off.
Planned with GE and Caltopo the route pays homage the great Steve Allen by linking parts of three of his adventures with some home brewed lines on the map.
The difficulty felt moderate; YMMV. We have a good amount of experience with one mile-an-hour terrain on the Plateau. Hauling and lowering packs is second nature and a willingness to solo fourth class with exposure is often just a deep breath away. The main challenge on this one is dead accurate navigation and constant focus while off trail’ing for 10 hours a day. Going solo would have been outside my comfort zone due to remoteness and lack of help with the dog, because, as Charlie Brown knows well: If my dog can't go - I'm not going.
Hardest isolated moves was the exit of F Canyon via a steep fifth class wall above slippery Moqui steps. The longest rope assisted obstacle was 70’ tall and a day earlier.
My dog took it all in stride, so maybe it all wasn’t so bad.
Water is always a serious planning concern on the Plateau. This trip was sketched out years ago and laid dormant on my computer waiting for the conditions that came together this late March: a couple of big spring storms covered the area with flash floods followed by an unseasonably cold high pressure: potholes and canyon bottoms got filled with water before we arrived and highs in the low forties kept it there for the entire trip. There was snow in the deep shade of the incredible mile long ledge walk 800’ above GC Canyon.
Our TPW was around thirty pounds. That included newly built framed packs for testing, 80’ of 6mm rope, a brick of a film camera and some real coffee brewing luxuries boosted by a sack of heavy cream powder.
While we shared a 9x9 mid between three six foot plus guys and a dog, each of us did bring a white gas kitchen and the delicious food choices were individually packed, but carefully traded. To see us thru the cold evenings we took turns making pots of Mormon tea with raisins. All these core-warming hot drinks and elaborate dinners consumed a whopping 20 ounces of fuel per person.
Pro Bars and Lenny & Larry Complete cookies, in addition to salami, cheese, Fritos and torts completed the picture.
We used aqua mira as the silty post flood water would have killed a filter immediately. Cooking water needed no treating.
In packing our layers all us under estimated the wind and day-time biting cold, especially the conditions on top of the Fold. We even got hit with a couple of squally snow storms on the day long traverse from Cliff to Hall.
Lows hit the teens despite keeping all camps out of the deep canyon bottoms with their notorious pooling of cold air. Sharing a well sealed tent, wearing pretty much everything and eating a solid high fat diet gave us reasonable comfort with our non-quilts, aka sleeping bags, rated in the high twenties.
Phone/GPS navigation in this sort of complex terrain was indispensable. I loaded all phones with the route on 7.5 quads plus springs and known pothole waypoints. I also added pics of the appropriate pages from Allen’s book. We had three big power banks and spare charging cables, plus the redundancy of two capable apps with different map sets: iHike and MapOut. No single paper map covered the whole route so we didn’t bring any; also no one owned an emergency satellite beacon.
submitted by nunatak16
to Ultralight [link] [comments]
2023.03.30 06:52 DtEWSacrificial 1Up Super Duty Single bike rack works acceptably with vision-based Park Assist.
Exactly as the title says, the 1Up Super Duty Single* in folded-up position works acceptably with vision-based Park Assist ("Danger Doodle"). It does not seem to generate false alarms, and does not seem to prevent the system from functioning correctly.** This is the extent of my current 1st-hand observation.
The reason for this seems fairly obvious: the rack folds up low & fairly close to the body. It does not protrude into the rear camera's FoV as substantially as other racks seem to.
I am doubtful that the vision-based Park Assist will account for the couple of inches of extra length that the folded-up rack contributes to the car... but then again, "precision" is not something I'm uttering in the same breath as vision-based Park Assist, so that's moot. I obviously do not expect it to work correctly when loaded with a bike and/or with an Add-On, but that's ok since 90%-of-the-time the rack is folded, sans Add-On (this allows the rear hatch to open/close per normal; it fully clears the rack).
All things considered, as questionable as vision-based Park Assist is at this point in time... it's probably the best option*** if you intend on leaving a tray-type hitch-mounted bike rack on the back of your MY. YMMV with other tray-type hitch-mounted bike racks; my setup was an educated gamble that seemed to have paid off.
* And presumably their Quik Rack Single as well, since I believe relevant dimensions are the same.
** As correctly as Tesla Vision Park Assist functions, which is as spasmodically and imprecisely as it does sans rack.
*** With USS-based Park Assist, you get the infamous yellow/red mustache. Aside - the Tesla OEM/Yakima FullTilt hitch rack works acceptably with USS-based Park Assist for the same reason the 1Up Single hitch rack works acceptably with vision-based Park Assist: neither sits in front of their respective sensors. Putting the Tesla OEM/Yakima FullTilt hitch rack on the back of a vision-based Park Assist car seems to be problematic.
submitted by DtEWSacrificial
to ModelY [link] [comments]
2023.03.30 06:50 OudSmoothie Gosen Inferno Smart (2022) review
| || |
Heya, back here with another review of a weird & wonderful racket! This time we have the Gosen Inferno Smart. Let's have a look. submitted by OudSmoothie to badminton [link] [comments]
I have here a 4u 2022 version of the Gosen Inferno Smart.
It has been strung with Yonex Aerosonic string at 25 lbs. I have additionally placed a thin overgrip on top of the polyethylene grip protector.
I am swinging this racket with a body that's 185 cm and 94 kg.
Gosen is a Japanese racket sport equipment company that has been around since 1951. It is quite conservative with distribution and releases new products at a glacial pace, and thus it isn't well known or commonly encountered outside of East Asia. However, within its home region, its rackets are well respected and very popular. The original release of the Inferno sold out in Japan and Taiwan instantly. Not to mention the rare MiJ Ryoga line racket releases - these are considered collectible by enthusiasts, such is the quality of manufacture. Gosen is known for the quality of its shafts and its well considered details.
The Inferno range is MiT (I think by Fleet OEM?) and launched with the original Inferno back in 2016. It was one of the most daring releases for Gosen - a new (and weird) looking spiral frame! A series of modifications on this base model were released subsequently, including Plus, Lite, Touch, EX, etc.
In 2022, series has a soft relaunch with the Smart (direct upgrade of the original Inferno), Raid (direct upgrade of the EX variant) and Air being released. Let's check out the Smart today!
The Inferno Smart feels great in the hand, with its medium flex 7.0 mm shaft and rigid head giving it a whippy feel in motion - hits are stable but somewhat bouncy & soft, in a good way. The snap-back of the shaft is incredibly quick, and there's no lag on big hits even if the shaft doesn't have the usual rigidity of most pro-tier rackets.
Overall, the Smart plays comfortably and gives you plenty of feedback, whilst being relatively forgiving for an intermediate player. It is ever so slightly head heavy. It's a great racket for whipping, rather than solid bat smashing (think Astrox).
Keep in mind tho, the handle is rather stiff - with polyethylene coating on wood - and very thin at G5. Most people will need a thicker overgrip on this.
The Smart produces good accuracy and consistency across all types of shots, though it doesn't have the pin point precision on big hits of similar quality rackets with a stiffer shaft (Thruster F variants, for example) that very advanced players may be seeking.
Net play and drop shots/lobs are very easy with the Smart. It also plays well defensively and can handle smashes & pressure very well. One interesting thing with the Smart is that my steeper shots are more reliable.
The Inferno frame is not only strong, but also very quick. It's not an absolute speedster, but is noticeably quicker than power rackets and many all-rounders, to the point where you'd need to make timing adjustments if you're coming from an Astrox, for example.
It's fast enough to be formidable at the net in doubles play, though it may still be one step behind absolute speedsters like the Jetspeed 12 ii I reviewed previously.
The Smart offers decent power ceiling and great power generation, but it is by no means a boom stick. You'd need to get the Raid version of this release, with its stiffer head & shaft, to have an offensive oriented racket.
What the Smart excels at is the ease of generating a harder hit and the slightly steeper angles on a smash you can achieve. It offers an easier and more forgiving power transfer, with a flexible but snappy shaft and a stiff & steady head - the birdie can be whipped, rather than batted.
The Inferno line of rackets, at its core, is built around the Inferno head shape, which is the most dramatic yet still functional frame shape I've seen. Gosen claims the shaping gives the head increased strength by 13% and increased impact stability and torsion strength at 6 to 7%. Indeed, it's while being 4u at the lightest (the Smart coming in at 82 grams), most Inferno rackets have Gosen endorsement to be strung up to 32 lbs.
The Smart is constructed from Mitsubishi'a Pyrofil and M30 carbon. All-hot-melt process was employed to ensure better structural uniformity throughout the frame, which ideally should (and certainly does) lead to better shock absorbance and feedback quality.
The Smart includes a new feature not present in the original, which is a polyethylene grip cover over the wood handle instead of a traditional factory grip tape. Which means you can continuously reapply overgrips (or even replacement grips) without worrying about what's underneath. The Smart also has an improved matt paint compared with the glossy original, making it a much sexier racket IMO. It has has refined weight distribution and utilises a new resin, making it stronger than the original Inferno but one gram lighter overall.
Quality of Manufacture
The Inferno Smart has a level of craftsmanship that rivals the top tier products from the Big 3 brands - it looks sleek, flawless and very premium. Which is not surprising, given Gosen has excellent R&D, and actually take the time needed to refine a product, rather than push out a new model every 3 months.
The matte black coating is sexy! This is my favourite looking racket of all time - almost Giger-esque... well, as much as a badminton racket can be.
Keep in mind though, because the spiral shaped frame does have sharp edges, any impact during doubles play might be hazardous!
With a RRP of 26000 JPY, the Gosen Inferno Smart is certainly a luxury racket and not a value-oriented product. I picked it up on discount at 75 GBP, and at that pricing the Smart was a steal!
Who is it for?
The Smart is for players of all proficiencies who have an all-around style of play. It excels as a general doubles racket.
The Smart is very suited to recreational players - it offers a fun and well rounded experience.
Who is it not for?
Players who are looking for absolute power or prefer a stiff shaft will not gel with the Smart. The shaft will likely prove too flexible for very advanced players.
Very high quality racket
Truely for all levels
Well balanced all-rounder
Snappy but stable
Faster and more powerful than you'd assume
Relatively forgiving and very fun
Looks otherworldly awesome
Stringing up to 32 lbs
Limited distribution/hard to buy
Very thin and hard handle at G6
May be too flexible for very advanced players
2023.03.30 06:44 chadtizzle CompTIA A+ got me a $10k raise
I heard so much trash talk on ITCareerQuestions
about how A+ is such a worthless certification. It had always been a goal of mine, but hearing everyone trash it really drug me down. Before I got my A+, I got a contract help desk job just trying to get my foot in the door, like many of you here. I didn't have any experience, certs, or degree; I was just an average dude trying to break into an industry that I was so passionate about. But I loved technology so much and I took a $20/hr shit job just for the experience. I was making $31/hr in manufacturing at the time, so taking that massive pay cut sucked. But I was desperate to get out.
I did 6 months at that contract job, and during my time there I put my head down and got my A+. I also got my Google IT certification as well, because I needed it to get into WGU. A full-time position opened up within the company, and I interviewed and ended up getting it. My manager told me that I was neck and neck with another candidate - and the reason they hired me was because of my certs.
Was I lucky? Probably. I went from <$50k to $60k with this jump. YMMV, but in my situation, it was absolutely worth it. So many people on that site told me it was such a worthless cert and that I'd be working at Geek Squad for the rest of my life. I'm just here to say KEEP PUSHING! It's absolutely not a worthless cert, in one month it has already paid dividends. Working on my N+ now - any advice is appreciated. Happy to answer any questions.
submitted by chadtizzle
to CompTIA [link] [comments]
2023.03.30 06:15 newbieforever2016 03/30/23 update
The canary of HB expired 03/27/23 and that of Paris expires 04/10/23. Admins request 72 hour grace period before pushing panic button.
You are strongly urged to get i2p setup because if claims prove true we will have that option to access dread shortly.
There continues to be mention of a pending i2p link. Don't be left scrambling trying to get it installed when they announce that they are online there. Be prepared.
I am NOT a premium member so I can not speak to their experiences but they are welcome to chime in with how their links are working for them.
Dread was online for much of today for those who have links other than the main link but the main link was a rough go. As of this moment the main link does not work for me so I am going to have to label it sporadic in this topic. The designation applies to the main link only but the premium links are working so marking offline would be false. I am one person speaking to my attempts to access the main link so ymmv.
Anyone who can spare the $50 buy a premium account and you will both help to fund dread and get a private link.
Bravo to dread staff for bringing us back Dread with a side order of Daunt.
submitted by newbieforever2016
to Dread_Status [link] [comments]
2023.03.30 04:49 InSearchOfGoodPun I just hit Infinite using Agatha
A while ago I faced an intriguing Agatha-Hela deck and thought that the basic concept made a lot of sense. I didn't think about it much, but then I was stuck in the 80s for like a week trying various deck concepts (most recently a Wong deck and then a DeathWave since I recently acquired Wong and Wave), and I got frustrated enough to say fuck it, let's play some Agatha. To my surprise, it was quite effective. To my greater surprise, it's even really fun, like betting on horses, and since it's a discard deck, I usually still get to actually play a portion of the game. So anyway, if anyone tells you that hitting Infinite is a mark of skill, I'm here to tell you it's not.
A little extra background: I'm a f2p player currently at CL 1673, started playing in Savage Lands season when I hit Infinite before my CL got high enough to see top tier meta decks. Hitting Pool 3 was a rude awakening and I topped out at Galactic in Quantum Realm before hitting a losing streak in the finals days, forcing me to start this season way down at 50. The climb took many many hours in total.
As bonus material, around Friday (before I started playing Agatha) I started recording what decks I faced whenever I was near my computer, and honestly, since the last update/nerf, the meta has been pretty healthy! (I understand that ymmv since everyone's meta is going to be different.) The results could be slightly skewed because of hot/featured locations, but Elysium and Krakoa aren't huge meta-shifters.
Anyway, out of 133 decks I faced:
- 26 were decks with an unidentifiable archetype (often because of an early retreat but sometimes because the deck was just weird).
- 13 Apocalypse discard (at least 6 of which had MODOK)
- 12 Patriot
- 10 destroy-based decks (at least 2 of which were Death Wave)
- 7 Shuri (for some I inferred that they just didn't draw Shuri in time)
- 6 Hela discard
- 6 non-Thanos Lockjaw
- 6 Daredevil control, for want of a better description
- 5 Sera control of some sort (plus 2 Seracle)
- 5 Thanos (I actually lost all of these)
- 5 Devil Dino
- 4 Doom Wave
- 4 move-based decks
- 4 jubilee (or not exactly sure what the archetype was)
- 4 Dracula Kazoo
- 3 Zero Kazoo
- 2 Agatha
- 2 Destroyer
1 each of Galactus, moongirl, Darkhawk, Wong, Cerebro, Spectrum, and bounce. I can't say for sure since I wasn't keeping stats, but I definitely feel like I was seeing a lot more Thanos and Shuri decks before the last update. (And a lot more Aero.)
submitted by InSearchOfGoodPun
to MarvelSnap [link] [comments]
2023.03.30 02:47 naikaeya layers are the best!
I got layers in my hair a while ago. I think it's similar to the wolf cut haircut which is pretty trendy right now... not sure if that's my exact haircut but I have a lot of layers, up to my chin. It's the best thing I ever did for myself. It literally styles itself! And it doesn't lose its volume, even after a few days after washing. I fuss with my hair a lot less now because the shorter pieces allow my hair to curl more and it naturally comes out all beautiful and styled.
I have maybe 2A or 2B? hair and it is moderately thick so your YMMV, but I highly suggest trying it if styling your hair is difficult and you struggle to keep the volume in it, or if you're tired of your waves falling out and creating frizz.
submitted by naikaeya
to Wavyhair [link] [comments]
2023.03.30 02:23 WiKDMoNKY TUTORIAL - How to install Plex Media Server on a NUC12 running Debian 11.6.0 and have working hardware transcoding via QuickSync and more!
I decided to move my current PMS from a Proxmox hosted LXC on a NUC10i7 to a baremetal install on a NUC12i3. I had the LXC of PMS running for a couple of years and it was a bit of PITA on the intital setup to get the GPU passthrough working with the iGPU. I figured it would be less work to run on dedicated hardware, but once again it takes many different packages and this time a custom kernel (https://xanmod.org/
) to get hardware transcoding working properly on 12th gen. I kludged together my initial instructions from various sites without getting hw transcoding working, but it was a post by u/DartSteven
that got me going in the right direction to make it all work.
I wrote this tutorial to document the steps I used to get it all working for all of us *nix newbs and/or those of us who a know enough to be dangerous. I am also adding a bonus tutorial on properly fully migrating a PMS (settings/customizations/play history/library settings) from one computer to another).
I wanted this to be as seamless as possible so that I would not have to re-setup my 30TB of 1000 or so movies, 100's of TV show episodes, music and thousands of photos. Since my LXC PMS had its own static IP address and I had backed up the PMS install directory, I shut down the old server and released the fixed IP my UDMP assigned it. Once the new PMS server came online, I named it the same and gave it the same fixed IP address as the old PMS. So far, no one has noticed that I even moved to a new system 😎
-I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU MAY MESS UP BY NOT FOLLOWING MY EXACT STEPS--ALWAYS MAKE BACKUPS OF YOUR IMPORTANT DATA BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANYTHING
Hardware Specs: NUC12 i3 16GB RAM 500GB Samsung 970 Pro This tutorial assumes that you understand the basics of Debian/Linux and command line. I know enough to be dangerous, but by no means am an expert. I am just very persistent at figuring out how to make something work and I spent a couple of days trying to figure this out. Just to be 100% sure this tutorial is correct (as of today), I wiped my already fully setup NUC12 and typed up this tutorial step by step to make sure everything worked as posted. I am sure there are some easier ways to accomplish some of my steps, but everything posted worked exactly as I expected on my system with a fresh install of Debian 11.6.0. YMMV These steps are based off of Debian commands. I believe the Ubuntu commands are similar. Please do not ask me about other flavors. For some reason, my Debian install does not let me use sudo and is why I generally just type su then type the root password to be able to work without having to type the root password in all the time.
Install Debian 11.6.0
- I made a bootable USB thumbdrive with BalenEtcher from the DVD ISO of Debian 11.6.0. I chose a standard install and chose the default options, but disabled Debian desktop environment, Gnome and enabled SSH server.
- Make sure the system is up to date
apt-get update && apt-get upgrade -y
- I also installed these packages gpg, htop, nfs-common
apt install gpg -y apt install htop -y apt install nfs-common -y
su #type in your root password
- Edit the repositories to give access to intel drivers and firmware
- Add the text non-free to the end of the line that says deb http://deb.debian.org/debian/ bullseye mainThe line should look like this deb http://deb.debian.org/debian/ bullseye main non-free
- Save the file
Install the intel firmware and drivers and microde
wget -qO - https://dl.xanmod.org/archive.key gpg --dearmor -o /usshare/keyrings/xanmod-archive-keyring.gpg su echo 'deb [signed-by=/usshare/keyrings/xanmod-archive-keyring.gpg] http://deb.xanmod.org releases main' tee /etc/apt/sources.list.d/xanmod-release.list apt update && apt install linux-xanmod-x64v3 -y apt install firmware-linux-nonfree -y apt install intel-media-va-driver-non-free -y mkdir firmware cd firmware wget -r -nd -e robots=no -A '*.bin' --accept-regex '/plain/' https://git.kernel.org/pub/scm/linux/kernel/git/firmware/linux-firmware.git/tree/i915/ mv *.bin /lib/firmware/i915/ su - update-initramfs -c -k all reboot
- Verify that you are running on the custom kernel
uname -a [email protected]:/home/plex# Linux pleximus 6.2.8-x64v3-xanmod1 #0~20230322.6ba5bb2 SMP PREEMPT_DYNAMIC Wed Mar 22 21:30:17 UTC x86_64 GNU/Linux
MOUNT AN NFS SHARE ON YOUR NAS AND MAKE IT PERSISTENT These instructions are going to be based on how my NAS NFS share is configured previously, please search around on how to do it on your own NAS. On this new system I tried everything to make my NFS mount persistent after reboots and the autofs package was the only thing that worked for me. You can skip this if you already know how to mount an NFS share and make it persistent a different way.
su nano /etc/fstab
- Add this line to the end of the fstab file text (based on your NFS share/mount configuration)
# NFS_SERVER:/PATH/TO/EXPORTED/DIR /MOUNT_POINT_ON_CLIENT TYPE_OF_FS OPTIONS DUMP PASS 10.0.30.10:/volume1/PLEX/MEDIA /mnt/plex nfs defaults 0 0
- Save the file
- Mount the share referenced in fstab
apt install autofs -y
- Add this to the end of the file
- Save the file
- Edit auto.mount
- Add an entry based off your configuration
# create new : [mount point] [option] [location] /mnt/plex -fstype=nfs,rw 10.0.30.10:/volume1/PLEX/MEDIA
systemctl restart autofs
su - reboot
- Verify that the share is mounted
- If you see your Plex media folders, then you are good to go
INSTALL PLEX MEDIA SERVER
apt install apt-transport-https curl -y
curl https://downloads.plex.tv/plex-keys/PlexSign.key apt-key add - echo deb https://downloads.plex.tv/repo/deb public main tee /etc/apt/sources.list.d/plexmediaserver.list apt update
apt install plexmediaserver -y
- Verify that Plex can see your iGPU hardware transcoder, it should say Intel 915 Hardware: Found
PlexMediaServer install: Installation Type: NewPlexMediaServer install: Process Control: systemdPlexMediaServer install: Plex User: plexPlexMediaServer install: Plex Group: plexPlexMediaServer install: Video Group: renderPlexMediaServer install: Metadata Dir: /valib/plexmediaserveLibrary/Application SupportPlexMediaServer install: Temp Directory: /tmpPlexMediaServer install: Lang Encoding: en_US.UTF-8PlexMediaServer install: Processor: 12th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-1220PPlexMediaServer install: Intel i915 Hardware: FoundPlexMediaServer install: Nvidia GPU card: Not FoundPlexMediaServer install:PlexMediaServer install: Completing final configuration.Created symlink /etc/systemd/system/multi-user.target.wants/plexmediaserver.service → /lib/systemd/system/plexmediaserver.service.PlexMediaServer install: PlexMediaServer-184.108.40.20668-28fc46b27 - Installation successful. Errors: 0, Warnings: 0Processing triggers for mailcap (3.69) ...
- Verify PMS is installed and running
systemctl status plexmediaserver
plexmediaserver.service - Plex Media Server
Loaded: loaded (/lib/systemd/system/plexmediaserver.service; enabled; vendor preset: enabled)
Active: active (running) since Wed 2023-03-29 14:52:22 PDT; 7min ago
Ctrl+C to close out of the PMS status screen
- You can exit and then logon to your PMS web interface by opening a web browser and going to https://yourpmsipaddress:32400 and setup Plex as you like.
If you are not migrating your PMS to a new computeserver, you can stop here and enjoy PMS on your NUC12 with working hardware transcoder.
MIGRATING PMS SETTINGS FROM ONE COMPUTER TO ANOTHER FULLY AND PROPERLY If you want to migrate your PMS to a new computer and keep all your settings, customizations, play history, and library settings this is how you do it. These instructions are all based off the assumption that your Plex media content is stored on a NAS that your PMS is mounted to and that PMS is installed in /valib/ on the OLD PMS.
- On your OLD PMS, backup your current PMS (settings/customizations/library settings only no media/content). This can take a while depending on how big your collection is. My backup was 12.1GB and took about 4-5 minutes to complete.
cd /valib tar cvf plexmediaserver.tar plexmediaserve gzip plexmediaserver.tar
- Copy or move the tar.gz file to your NAS for safe keeping
mv plexmediaserver.tar.gz /mnt/plex/
- On your NEW PMS, copy or move the tar.gz file to your /valib/ folder
cd /valib cp /mnt/plex/plexmediaserver.tar.gz /valib/
- Delete the empty /valib/plexmediaserver folder
rm -rf plexmediaserver
- Extract the plexmediaserver.tar.gz file to the /valib/ folder
tar xvfz plexmediaserver.tar.gz
- Delete tar.gz file (optional)
systemctl start plexmediaserver
- Reboot system for good measure
su - reboot
Once you reboot, you should be able access your PMS web interface by opening a web browser and going to https://yourpmsipaddress:32400
. In my case, everything was exactly how it was on the old LXC PMS server.
Sites used to complete this process: Debian 11 - Nuc 12 - Some questions for you : debian (reddit.com) XanMod Kernel Debian 11 Bullseye : Configure NFS Client : Server World (server-world.info) Install Plex media server Debian 11 [Step-by-Step] GoLinuxCloud Migrating a Plex Media Server to another system – Observations… (kennethballard.com)
submitted by WiKDMoNKY
to intelnuc [link] [comments]
2023.03.30 01:36 kiwikealy anyone experience major side effects after titrating upwards?
hi all! i just did my first 0.5mg dose today after 4 weeks of 0.25mg. during the four weeks i was on 0.25mg i experienced minimal and predictable side effects…occasional GERD, feeling full 24/7, a headache here and there, etc. recently i’ve been feeling more constipated but i’ve been mindful about drinking more water and liquid IV as well as eating healthy sources of fiber. i’ve lost roughly 8-10lbs so far. did anyone experience any major unpleasant side effects when moving up a dose? i’m very concerned about the random and unpredictable vomiting some people experience when on GLP-1 agonists as i hope to not be sick while at work. obviously everyone tolerates medication differently, YMMV. i’d like to hear some of your experiences if you don’t mind sharing! :)
submitted by kiwikealy
to WegovyWeightLoss [link] [comments]
2023.03.30 00:20 BroMandi [Home Depot] [In Store Only, YMMV] Avanti 10 in. x 60-Tooth Fine Finish Miter Saw Blade Value Pack (2-Pack) $24.97 [Deal: $24.97, Actual: $41.97]
2023.03.29 23:00 Flimsy_Piccolo3353 Auvelity potentiates Cannabis and Vice Versa!
I can finally get medicated from a few tokes. Both are mediated by the same enzyme. YMMV; exercise caution!
submitted by Flimsy_Piccolo3353
to AuvelityMed [link] [comments]
2023.03.29 20:01 OddSardine Resetting my cycle with norethindrone
Hello! I have a question and a small rant too:
My gynecologist prescribed me the mini pill (norethindrone 5mg) because I’m going on vacations in May and after getting the tickets I realized I was gonna get my period in the middle of it. So I immediately made an appointment with my gyn and she said that we just need to reset my cycle.
I started taking the pills this month on the 12th day of my cycle. I feel good so far except for the bloating. There’s no way I gained 6lb in less than a week.
I was just wondering if this is normal and if it will go away soon? I feel so uncomfortable right now. I don’t eat too much sugar, carbs or salty stuff. I drink water and work out 3-6 days a week.
I’m supposed to call my gyn when I get my period. But if this pill is gonna make me bloated all the time I’ll stop after I get my period.
I’m aware that YMMV, but what has been your experience with this pill? Thanks!
submitted by OddSardine
to birthcontrol [link] [comments]
2023.03.29 18:58 BubotheGunganEwok Rooting in perlite
| || |
This is, of course, just my experience. I had been struggling with sphagnum and getting root rot on a lot of my sensitive plant babies, mostly princesses. I’m still fairly new to the plant-growing hobby. submitted by BubotheGunganEwok to houseplants [link] [comments]
I switched to both perlite and stratum for rooting. Stratum is always fine for me, if I am responsible enough to keep the water level maintained, I have no problems. I still wanted to try perlite and I’ve attached pics of my first experiment with alocasia corms. I was initially sad that my purchase went into immediate dormancy, but thanks to the internet, I rescued the corms. I kept them in straight perlite and water, in a plastic propagation bin. All three corms successfully grew new plants (now potted in an aroid mix), as seen in today’s pictures.
When I saw the success of the little alocasias, I decided to try a pink princess in the same conditions. The two plants in the second photo were the same size last month. (Albeit from different plants, could also affect results)
As with anything, YMMV, but this method is working well for me while I get the hang of sphagnum. Plus, if it’s all you have on-hand, it can definitely work in a pinch. Thanks for listening, plant friends!
2023.03.29 18:32 TheKentuckyMonkey Roughed In Roughout Dying Process- Disclaimer YMMV
2023.03.29 18:21 lilracerboi Zephyrus G15 G503Q Armoury Crate Re-install
I was finally able to re-install Armoury Crate with no further issues without resorting to re-installing Windows. Hopefully this could help someone in the future. My system is a laptop and I needed AC to switch on/off the dGPU; YMMV on mobos.
AC kept trying to run an install every time it started up (Installing Peripherials). I tried everything I could find searching on Google which includes running the un-install tool and running either the standard install tool or full installation package.
In the end, what I did was run the un-install tool, delete ASUS folder located at %LOCALUSERPROFILE%\ASUS, deleted registry keys for anything related to AC located at HKLM:\SOFTWARE\ASUS\, deleted residual AC files in C:\Program Files\WindowsApps\. Because AC is UWP, you will need to take ownership of the folder and all children in order to delete it, it'll take a bit of effort. Then finally I uninstalled all ASUS software such as AURA Sync. After all that I ran the AC installer like normal.
submitted by lilracerboi
to ASUS [link] [comments]
2023.03.29 17:59 robotwithhumanhair22 Ayaneo 2 - My Experiences
I've seen a lot of posts on this sub about stuff not working with several Ayaneo 2 units and I figured I'd give my own two cents and try to balance the bad with some good. Reading through Reddit posts and reviews akin to my own has really helped me to become informed with purchases like this and I hope this helps you in the way that these posts have helped me. For the record I had been researching other devices like the GPD Win Max 4, AOKZOE A1, and the Steam Deck and had ultimately decided on the Ayaneo 2 as being the best fit for my particular use case.
I've had the Retro Power variant since January and spent weeks upon weeks getting it set up with my ROM collection, installing / setting up / optimizing emulators, installing other tools and setting up miscellaneous games like Super Mario Bros X. And on top of all that, setting it up with LaunchBox / BigBox which in my opinion are phenomenal front ends. But I digress, and from now on will watch the frequency of my usage of "setting up". As someone who has only really owned Nintendo consoles since the SNES days (and a gaming PC), I was kinda blown away by this thing and still am - my main intent for the Ayaneo 2 was to turn it into a device that could play anything I threw at it and it does by FAR.
I'll start off with the good, explain the bad, and address my own personal nitpicks, in that order.
For starters, the performance is insane for what it is. Keep in mind that I only really play with low settings as well as low resolutions, so YMMV; I never really cared all that much for graphics and textures and such, as long as the gameplay is smooth. And smooth it is. It ran games like Elden Ring and Spider-man Remastered very smoothly at 22W using these settings, lighter games like Outer Wilds and emulators like CEMU/Dolphin at 15W, and indie games and NES/SNES emulation at 7W. The battery life may leave much to be desired if you're running above 15W, but I can easily squeeze out at least 3 hours of the battery if I keep it at 7W with lighter games, which is my primary use case. Anything above 15W and I just place it on the dock, which outputs to my TV just fine. The fan noise above 15W can get a little loud, but using Aya's SmartFan app and making adjustments there can calm it down a bit. (I mimicked the settings Taki Udon used in his review of the Ayaneo Geek.)
The screen is phenomenal, hands-down. I almost couldn't believe it was IPS - it looks more like OLED to me. The colors are super vibrant, and you can easily change the color settings in the AMD Adrenalin app to your liking as well. I have a few nitpicks regarding this, however, which I will get to shortly.
The Dpad. My god, the dpad. It's amazing. It's precise, and has something that's reminiscent of that SNES dpad "squish". Not quite the same, but there's definitely a resemblance. Best dpad I've used so far behind the SNES'.
The device itself is extremely comfortable to hold, too. I have larger hands so this was a nice surprise - the 2DS XL and Switch both make my hands cramp up after an hour of use, but I'm not experiencing this with the Ayaneo 2.
Now the bad (which thankfully I've discovered workarounds for most) - my particular unit is having a strange issue where when booting, it freezes at the logo screen and needs to be forced off - one particular day it would constantly throw a BSOD with BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO; I had even re-installed Windows the day I got it. When this happens more than twice in a row, it goes to automatic repair and the startup repair tool doesn't do much to help with this. The only way I could get it to boot successfully was to use a restore point I had made a week prior, which thankfully keeps your files / games / save files in tact, but upon turning it off or rebooting it would get stuck again. Surprisingly, this morning when I placed it back on the dock after 2 days of use without charge and tried booting, it was successful; even the three additional reboots I performed after that brought it back up, and with speed too. Taking it off of the dock, same thing: successful and quick boot into Windows. A few folks in the Ayaneo Discord channel have given me helpful advice regarding placing it back on a charger and trying as well as pointing me towards a potentially-stuck WIndows update, and I appreciate the community there. But these days I'm at about 50% clench every time I start up the Ayaneo and the thought of re-installing Windows after all I've done to it so far absolutely spooks me.
Opening it up for repairs or swapping the SSD is an absolute pain as well, and I was unable to avoid damaging and chipping the shell in the process. I initially did this to try to correct my left analog stick, which was off-center ever so slightly towards the up direction, which I also was unable to resolve. This I've learned to deal with, as it doesn't affect input at all. It's just a bit awkward to look at if you know what you're looking for.
I'm sure you've seen a bunch of negative reviews of Ayaspace, and though it isn't quite a flaming heap of trash, it's still extremely buggy. Updating it always reverts the language to Chinese and sometimes controller firmware updates refuse to install. The Chinese English is also really strange too, and many settings aren't quite explained in much detail. It took me a while before I realized that in order to make a change, I also have to hold the Start button to save the changes or else it won't work. Changing resolutions through the Quick Tool, for example, from 1980x1200 to 1980x1080, the image is not centered; instead of a small black bar on the top and bottom, there's a larger black bar at the top of the screen and the image is not centered. I've been able to bypass this by setting the resolution in Windows display settings, but I'd imagine a similar level of success with tools like Handheld Companion.
This device is a tinkerer's dream - which isn't quite a nitpick, per se, but may not be for everyone. It comes with base Win11 Home with Ayaspace and various Aya drivers installed, and that's it; everything else must be set up from scratch. And there were a few weird hiccups that I've had to overcome to get it set up the way that I wanted. For example, I planned on using the Ayaneo 2 with a dock connected to my TV most of the time, but pairing a Bluetooth controller (8bitdo SN30 Pro 2 as XInput) right off the bat did not work. I ended up using ReWASD to pair my controller to the Ayaneo controller so that both would be recognized as "player 1", and set up another profile for players 2-4 to be recognized as long as their controllers are XInput. I'd imagine if I was using a Switch Pro controller I'd need to set up another profile. However Ayaspace has a setting that disables the on-board controls so that a Bluetooth controller can be used instead, and I'd imagine there are other tools out there that would help with this. I just found ReWASD to be the most reliable option here. I've also set up my display settings when connected to a dock to disable the display from the Ayaneo itself and have only the TV display enabled to completely eliminate issues with conflicting resolutions. Admittedly I get a sick satisfaction from tinkering and setting things up and embracing the freedom you have to set things up the way that you see fit, but if you seek a device that you can just boot up and play instantly you may want to look elsewhere.
The buttons are a bit clicky and a bit on the smaller side, but they do work fine with a decent amount of travel. I personally would've preferred rubber membrane as I prefer squishy buttons like the SNES controller, but that's just me. The analog sticks and triggers both have a lot of travel to them, a bit more than I would've liked, but they're both great and the hall sensors for both are stupid accurate.
The brightness of the screen I've found was bit too bright on the lowest setting. I've had to tame the vibrant colors a bit using AMD's Adrenalin tool and install a third-party application called Dimmer, which dims your screen brightness way past what the system minimum is. It does so on a sliding scale, however, so you can tweak this to your heart's content.
I've heard a lot of complaints about the sound, and though while it's not the best, I really don't mind it. If I wanted better sound quality, I have no problem just connecting it to the dock, plugging headphones into the jack, or using Bluetooth earbuds.
The device itself, though comfortable to hold, is a bit heavy. This I also don't really mind a whole lot, considering this is essentially a laptop/tablet with a gamepad attached, but may be a point of contention for some.
TL;DR - My Verdict
When the Ayaneo 2 works, it's fantastic. But when it doesn't, it's a pain in the ass. That may just be Windows for you, it may not. I have yet to figure that out. But when it works as-intended, this is a fantastic little device that has so much power underneath the hood. And you can do pretty much everything with it, within reason, of course. Is it worth the hefty price tag? Maybe, maybe not; it depends on what you'd like to accomplish with it.
Do you want to just emulate older systems up to Gamecube/Wii? For that I'd recommend an Android-based handheld.
Do you want something that'll play your Steam/AAA games well on the go and nothing else? Go with a Steam Deck, for sure. You really can't beat that price-to-performance ratio and SteamOS is really good at what it does.
Do you want a one-and-done device that is capable of storing terabytes upon terabytes of games and will be what you use for all of your gaming? Ayaneo 2 for sure.
Thanks for reading! I hope this helped and I'd be happy to answer any other questions you may have.
submitted by robotwithhumanhair22
to ayaneo [link] [comments]
2023.03.29 17:28 dgtlman Time to close out this project - passed pmp with AT x3
| || | submitted by dgtlman to pmp [link] [comments]
I wanted to write up my experience so it can be added to the collective pmp
lessons learned register.
From start to completion, there were 8 weeks from when I purchased AR's course to taking the test. Although in between, I had a personal issue come up that prevented me from studying the whole time. I think I lost 2-3 weeks. Also, I have some PM experience, but not in mid or large industries. That said, both the PMBOK method and agile are new to me.
In total, I spent $738 on this process. Here is the break down in order of how, where and thoughts:
- AR's Udemey PMP course ($30) - This was a good (not great) course. I can't compare it to others as it was the only one I used. Most of it I found very dry. I really got annoyed when he pulls out the red pen and marks up nearly the entire page. I have always felt that when one highlights everything, nothing is important. Despite that, the mindset is where the course really shines. Despite those things, for the money, it is a great resource that is well worth it.
- TIA mock tests ($45) - These really reinforce the mindset. Question difficulty is easy to moderate. Repeatability for me was low as I quickly remembered the answers to score high when taken a second time. I would do this again as a first phase of the post PDU study.
- PMI Study Hall ($80) - You are going to hate this as it will break you down before building you up. But if you are getting 67% +/- the first time you take these tests, you are going to be fine. They are far tougher than TIA, but will prep you for the test.
- u/third3rock study notes ($15) - Maybe the best print resource available. It is well worth it for a really fair price! Get it here.
- PMI Membership ($150) - Not really optional, and it needs to be paid annually. Not paying this just makes everything else more expensive.
- PMP Test Fee ($405) - Yes this is expensive, but it is unavoidable.
The reason I broke down the entire price is to show that over 75% percent is unavoidable. Additionally, taking the test a second time if you fail is $275. So a little more on the front end is better than retaking it again.
My study method was to move from the videos to the mock tests as soon as possible. I spent the bulk of my prep taking practice tests and then spending a larger amount of time understanding why I got questions right or wrong. I did all the SH 15 question tests, they were brutal but really helpful.
I took 2 full SH practice tests. The second time I took it using the same conditions I would the real test. This was on a Thursday. I score 74%.
I wanted to take the test in person, but the first available date near me was 2 months away. I wanted to finish the test as a goal before the end of the month. Plus I was worried that I would have to keep studying just to maintain knowledge. So I scheduled home test for 9pm on Tuesday night.
Test went really well. I finished the first two sections and was feeling great. Took both breaks. Nothing really overwhelming. Questions felt like they were somewhere between TIA and SH. Then section three started.
Around question 150, my screen went black. At this point, it is safe to say I was FREAKING OUT. I realized that the power cable had come unplugged to my MacBook*. I quickly plugged it in, but had to wait until it had enough power to resume from where it was. After what felt like forever, computer resumed where it was. The proctor was really friendly, said they were going to call, and then got me back into the test. The person was incredibly friendly and there was zero judgement or accusation. Although I didn't mention, and had no intention to mention, that the power was the reason for the problem.
30 questions later I got the glorious message that I passed. The email about the test score report was sent to my junk mail. But if you go to pearsonvue's site, it will confirm you passed and your result.
Despite the incident, I would do home version of personvue again. For other people, YMMV. I have fiber internet, was very careful about following all the setup, and I was comfortable doing any preset up. Also, I set up a user with no admin access that I logged into just for the test. For many reasons this was for my protection and to prevent any notifications, etc.
Anyway. I hope this is helpful. Feel free to ask questions.
* The test software is a power hog and completely covers the menu bar at the top of the computer. This prevented me from seeing the battery level and clock. Something to be aware of.
2023.03.29 15:43 fatherlyuncle Drug Test Questions/Advice Request
Posted this on the discord as well but would also enjoy Reddit’s opinions.
Anyways, I am curious if anyone has any personal (or anecdotal) experience about the relative amount of time it takes for a person to test negative on a thc urine test. For context, I work in an industry that almost always is required to conduct pre-employment drug screens. Before I acquired the job I have now, I had been smoking quite a lot, every day, for almost 6 years straight. It ended up taking me over 3 months to pass an at-home test.
Now at a new job, I have been smoking every day for 2 years (albeit less) and I weigh around 10% less than I did previously. I stopped smoking 2 weeks ago, but haven’t bothered taking any at-homes yet as I’m confident I will piss hot.
Would anyone be able to tell me from their own experiences if I can expect it to take 3 Months again, or is it relatively proportional and I could expect to be clean in as little as 1 month? It’s always impossible to find reliable info on the internet about this stuff lol.
Of course I know YMMV with these things and it depends on quite a few factors, but I desperately need a new job and am hoping I won’t need to wait 3 more months to start seriously pursuing one. Any advice or wisdom is appreciated!
Have a great day everyone! (Feel free to DM me as well if you’d prefer)
submitted by fatherlyuncle
to Michigents [link] [comments]
2023.03.29 14:46 skwipe CONFIRMED - Gamestop in store preorders for Zelda OLED & Pro Controller
for confirming that in Nova Scotia they were able to preorder in store
Switch OLED Zelda TotK SKU : 777952 Deposit Minimum : 40$
Pro Controller Zelda TotK SKU : 777954 Deposit Minimum : 5$
Carrying Case Zelda Totk SKU : 777955 Deposit Minimum : 0$
Note that stores will most likely not accept over the phones requests due to the deposit, but YMMV
submitted by skwipe
to AmiiboCanada [link] [comments]
2023.03.29 14:01 AutoModerator What Card Should I Get? Weekly Thread - Week of March 29, 2023
Welcome to the What Card Should I Get Weekly Thread, where we try to figure out what card you should get or critique your current plans or AOR if you're doing it that way). Everything is YMMV and these are all opinions. Agree or disagree with your votes. As always read the wiki, do your research
, and happy churning.
Also, check out the Credit Card Recommendation Flowchart
before posting in this thread.
- The flowchart can answer 95% of all "What card should I get?" questions. By continuing to post, you must explain why you feel the flowchart does not answer your question. Asking for feedback ("The flowchart says I should get X - is that still the best choice?") is absolutely allowed.
- What is your credit score?
- What cards do you currently have or have you had in the past (including closed cards), along with dates of when you were approved for the cards? Please include month and year for any card approved in the last 3 years.
- How much natural spend can you put on a new card(s) in 3 months?
- Are you willing to MS, and if so, how much in 3 months? See this page for a primer on MS. Plastiq (for rent/mortgage/loan payments) and bank account funding are often good options for beginners.
- Are you open to applying for business cards? If not, why? See this post and this wiki question to learn more.
- How many new cards are you interested in getting? Are you interested in getting into churning regularly (if you aren't already)? Or are you just looking to get a new card(s) for now but not get into churning long-term?
- Are you targeting points, Companion Passes, hotel or airline statuses, First Class, Biz, Economy seating(s) or cash back?
- What point/miles do you currently have?
- What is the airport you're flying out of?
- Where would you like to go? (The more specific you are, the better someone can recommend the right card. Tokyo is great, "International travel" is way too vague)
submitted by AutoModerator
to churning [link] [comments]
2023.03.29 13:45 Novamarauder Hero Academy (by Box Wine) (Repost with houserules)
This cyoa by Box Wine is a classic for the magic school subgenre, and rather good as it concerns flavor, setting, and definition of classes. Its focus on training high-fantasy heroes makes it even better. However, it suffers from a few serious problems, including a thoroughly insufficient amount of class slots, excessive vagueness about proficiency levels, a wholly unrealistic class organization, and a somewhat confusing events schedule as well.
I have devised a set of houserules that allow a different class organization, more leeway in making one's build, and a more plausible study schedule. Just one subject per semester defies suspension of disbelief, and only fits in the laziest dreams of slacker students. A more generous point budget should also indirectly lessen the issue of vagueness in skill levels. My houserules include:
A) You may take 3 Classes for semester and unlimited Drawbacks, within reason. Just avoid silliness such as trying to set up a loop of Bookworm and Social Butterfly for infinite points, or having so few classes you'd likely fail.
B) MultiplayeIsekai Party Mode. You can form a party with other Redditors. You can take a full 30 classes (6 classes each year), and 6 of them can be taken from other academies. You can be from different clubs, but you will have to do the events together. You can discuss what events you want to do together. There is no leader unless you vote for one. You can't take Companions or Drawbacks. u/FairyKnightTristan
helped me develop Option A in a past reposting, thank you. Option B) is not my original idea, but I cannot remember where or from whom I got it, sorry. If the person that got the idea comes forward, I'll be glad to acknowledge and thank them. If you ask my honest opinion, I would not try to use the cyoa without houserules such as mine or similar, but of course YMMV and do as you prefer. Besides the issues I have mentioned, many cyoas freely allow the player to choose how many skills or companions to have within available resources allocation, and there is no good reason why this one should not too. IMO it is not an author's business to decide in the place of the player the minimum number of friends they should have.
Imgur Album: https://imgur.com/gallery/WH1AHMh
Direct Image Links: Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7
submitted by Novamarauder
to makeyourchoice [link] [comments]
2023.03.29 12:50 CrossReset Animals Base Breaking Characters, Ensemble Darkhorses, and Scrappys
Been tweaking the TV tropes pages a bit as I prepare to get the new computer that'll run Planet Zoo, and one thing I do want to get on is some YMMV/debatable stuff. One area I'm certainly curious about are which animals are Base Breaking Characters, Ensemble Darkhorses, and Scrappys.
Base Breaking Characters are characters who are either loved or hated in pretty equal measure. As an example Bakugo from MHA, who people both see as the most popular character, and hate with a passion, would be this.
Ensemble Darkhorses are characters who, while not main characters, are incredibly beloved. In Planet Zoo I'd be looking for animals that, while not prominent in Planet Zoo's marketing (as headliner animals in expansion packs or in the base game's marketing) that are adored by fans as much, if not more, as said focused on animals.
Scrappys are the animals the community just hates in general. They might have some fans but they are few. To use MHA again, Mineta would go here. I get the impression that the Himalayan Brown Bear is particularly hated, but would like to get more opinions on it before I do the edits.
Appreciate the feedback. I've been looking around youtube but I'll admit that I have not found a ton of Youtubers I like so far, mostly because a ton of their focus is in building mechanics over animals. So an additional way to feel around for fandom trends is something to appreciate IMO.
submitted by CrossReset
to PlanetZoo [link] [comments]