Charli and noah leak

5 tips to find a first-class example of a secondhand Dodge Viper.
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I’ve got a Dodge Viper problem. Despite their horrifying fuel consumption, restricted outward visibility, leg-singeing rocker panels, and an exhaust note like a hot-rod UPS truck, I’ve enjoyed driving two of these machines for the better part of 10 years and about 65,000 kilometres to date.
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My first Viper was a 2000 GTS Coupe. My childhood dream car, we spent five years and about 45,000 kilometres together driving around town, going on road trips, lapping various tracks, and attending car shows and the like.
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About four years ago I traded this unit in for a 2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10 Coupe. We’ve done about 20,000 kilometres together, partaking in a similar range of activities.
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I’ve had zero mechanical problems associated with the driveline in either of my cars, and little more than the odd electronic hiccup resulting from a weak battery or wonky sensor. I’ve owned a lot of cars, and my two Vipers have been among the most reliable — second only to my 1993 Nissan 240SX.
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The key success factor here is that I’ve had both units checked over fully by a qualified ‘Viper Tech’ in a dealer setting, on my dime, before purchase. In both cases, this pre-purchase checkup was worth the investment. For my first Viper, the inspection revealed thousands worth of upcoming repair- and replacement parts which helped me negotiate a much better deal; on my second car, it picked up a dead trunk-release button which the selling dealership fixed on their dime, and also confirmed that this car was in otherwise excellent shape.
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To be clear: the best thing you can do before buying a used Dodge Viper is to make arrangements to have it seen by a Viper-trained technician in a dealer setting.
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Still, after a decade of V-10 Mopar motoring, I’ve also come up with some additional tips to share with potential used Dodge Viper shoppers, especially those considering a vintage like mine — that is, the second- to fourth-generation cars.
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Following these tips can help you enjoy a more trouble-free driving experience and avert potential headaches or surprises with your new toy.
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Door hinges
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I’ve found the door hinges in both of my Vipers to be quite fussy, and I’m not alone.
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In my 2000 GTS, the doors seemed to sag with repeated use over time. The driver’s door hinge eventually needed to be readjusted multiple times to prevent the door from striking the body when closing. The out-of-alignment door hinge also caused damage to the weather seals around the door, resulting in a small water leak.
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The hinge can be loosened, adjusted, and fastened back into place, but the process is frustrating and somewhat complicated if you’re not the most mechanically-inclined (like me). Professional help may be the best course of action if the Viper you’re considering seems to be suffering from saggy doors; it’s not a difficult job for someone who knows what they’re doing.
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My 2008 Viper SRT-10 is exhibiting similar symptoms this year. The driver’s door has begun emitting a loud creak when opening fully (or closing), and lubrication of the hinge hasn’t helped. The door is rubbing somewhere, and the hinge needs to be readjusted.
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Note that leaving this issue unchecked can cause collateral damage to the weather seals (pricey) and window glass (pricier), so you’ll want to address it as soon as you notice any warning signs.
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These warnings include doors that seem to stick during some portion of their movement, doors that don’t close properly with a light push, doors that fail to engage the striker properly or even bounce back open, doors that require slamming to latch shut, or any used Viper whose door-mounted weather seals are cracked, ripped, or otherwise visibly damaged.
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In sum: be sure the doors open, close and latch without undue force or noise, and that all weather seals are intact and in solid shape.
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Powertrain stresses
To prevent undue wrenching of the door hinge, I always start the engine after the doors are closed.
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Firing up the Viper’s big V-10 twists the car back and forth (it’s all that torque), but can also wrench on the heavy doors and their small hinges, which seems to shift things out place in quick order. With the doors closed at engine startup, this excessive wrenching of the hinges is prevented.
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Fun fact: during a tour of the Dodge Viper factory, one long-time Viper craftsman told me that the original hinge design was intended to be steel (stronger), though the engineers pushed for a lighter aluminum hinge (softer). In the day, he figured this might cause problems for some owners, and it turns out he was right.
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“The fifth-generation cars use a different hinge, and the doors are much lighter, since they’re made from an aluminum film that’s shaped by air in a mould” he said.
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Wheel alignment
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Dodge Vipers have, I figure, a somewhat unfounded reputation for dodgy handling and being difficult to control. In my opinion, these problems are mainly driver-related (not car-related), but that’s a topic for a different story.
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Of course, the Viper’s steam-roller tires do try and follow every nook, cranny, and tar-strip on the road, which means the car often seems to be squirming and shuffling even as you drive along in a straight line.
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Still, don’t underestimate the difference that a proper wheel alignment can make. I recently had one performed in a dealer setting on my 2008 for the first time, and the difference in handling, stability, and response while steering and braking were notable — especially in terms of reduced workload at the wheel. It’s easy to assume ‘this is just how Vipers handle’, though a fresh alignment instantly made my 2008 feel more precise, more responsive, and less labor-intensive to drive on the highway.
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In my case, the difference was night-and-day. As an added bonus, proper alignment means that the (very pricey) tires won’t wear as quickly.
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Power windows
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The power windows on both of my Vipers were finicky and fussy. Compared to most cars, I found the power windows in both of my Vipers to feel and sound harsh when in use. They’ve also been the cause of various headaches, especially in my 2008.
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This Viper has a feature called window indexing, a fancy way of saying that the window drops a half-inch or so when the door handle is pressed, allowing it to clear the body of the car and for the door to open and close more easily.
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The indexing function on the passenger side window failed one day, meaning that opening the passenger door meant catching the upper ‘corner’ of the glass inside of the opening, contacting it and wearing down the finish. Closing the passenger door likewise resulted in contact of the window against the body in the same spot.
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This can all result in wear to the vehicle’s paint, a noisier drive, and an increased likelihood of damaging the Viper’s finicky and sometimes-fragile power window hardware because of an unintended impact.
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On your test drive, note that one, both, or none of the power windows may be suffering this problem, and that the problem may be sporadic in nature. I can’t offer a fix that’s worked reliably for me, though disconnecting and reconnecting the battery does typically fix the issue for a time.
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On your test drive, confirm that both power windows work as expected, and be sure to carefully inspect the outer edge of the upper door opening above the window itself for signs of marking, paint damage, or scuffing that indicate contact.
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Cooling system and overheating
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Some owners have reported overheating of their Viper, especially in situations with high ambient temperatures, and during sustained periods of heavy-throttle driving, such as in a motorsports setting. Other owners have reported random engine overheating as a possibility from time to time, with a temperature gauge that may suddenly push towards the dangerous red zone on the coolant gauge randomly, and without warning. Many other owners have experienced no overheating issues from their Vipers.
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Several factors may contribute to a Viper’s engine overheating, as well as inconsistent or seemingly random coolant-temperature fluctuations.
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To protect yourself and avoid surprises, start with a pre-purchase inspection that includes the used Viper’s cooling system, including the coolant level and condition, an inspection of the water pump and surrounding area (for leaks), all hoses, the thermostat, the cooling fan(s) and associated wiring and relays, and the radiator itself.
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Have a professional inspect both the engine oil and engine coolant for signs of cross-contamination, which could indicate a head-gasket problem.
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On your test drive, take note of the coolant temperature gauge at various points. The needle should settle somewhere around the middle of the gauge and stay there, perhaps creeping up slightly over the halfway mark on hotter days. If the gauge suddenly climbs towards the red zone for no apparent reason, the vehicle you’re considering should be seen by a professional before you buy.
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In this application, an overheating engine can be the result of a simple problem like an air bubble in the cooling system, or a serious one like a failing head gasket. You’ll want to know before you buy.
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Run the Viper’s heater on your test-drive, too. If functioning properly, the heater will have no trouble pushing a lot of hot air into the Viper’s cabin once the engine is warmed up. If that’s not the case, or if the heat suddenly seems to disappear, have the system checked professionally. Some owners have successfully fixed problems by ‘burping’ air bubbles out of the cooling system. Ask a professional if you’re not sure how.
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Driveline clunks
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The Viper’s driveline is not a pinnacle of refinement, and certain noises and vibrations are more prominent than you may be used to. The question is which of these are normal, and which are cause for concern?
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When checking out the user Viper you’re considering, quiet the cabin and listen for a few specific sounds in a few specific situations to prevent unwanted surprises.
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First, place the vehicle in neutral with the engine running at idle and the clutch pedal pressed fully. Slowly release the clutch pedal, listening closely for any sign of a scraping, whirring, or grinding sound as the clutch is released. If you hear such a sound, press the clutch pedal in again to see if it goes away. The sound may seem to be coming through the floor near the driver’s feet. This sound can indicate a worn throw-out bearing, a part usually changed with the clutch.
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I’ve noticed this sound on both of my Vipers. In both cases, it’s remedied by replacing the clutch, which includes a new bearing. You can drive your Viper while it’s making this noise, but if the bearing or associated hardware eventually fails, your clutch may become unusable.
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You’ll also want to be on the lookout for unwanted sounds from the rear differential. The oil in this component needs to be changed regularly with a specific gear oil and a precise amount of friction-modifying additive. Using the wrong type or amount of gear oil or friction modifier can result in unfavourable consequences, including rear-axle noise. If your rear-axle oil isn’t serviced regularly by someone who knows what they’re doing, you’ll likely be hearing from your Viper’s rear end.
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When driving a Viper, the differential sits just behind and beneath the driver. Though some whirring and light clunking from time to time is largely considered normal, any binding, whining, or heavy clunks — especially at low speed — can be signs of trouble.
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Final Thought
These tips are designed to help test-driving shoppers more easily identify possible trouble areas reported by some owners. An attentive test-drive and shopping process that focuses on the areas above can help you find a first-class example of a secondhand 1996-2010 Dodge Viper.
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Source: driving ca