I have a 2007 honda civic 2dr lx manual and honestly, after changing the head unit to be more modern, I love this thing to bits, except that I find it a little lackluster when it comes to power.
Sure, it does the job and since it's a manual car, there is some fun to have even without the extra horsepower, but after looking and looking I'm having a hard time finding something similar at a decent price that doesn't completely slash out the cargo space (which is not great but more than usable). I don't mind getting older cars and retrofitting modern bits, I just want to make sure they won't rust away or blow up after 20k km.
Any ideas?

I've seen about a zillion used car discussions on here but this time I'm asking for myself. I'm a recent grad and just secured a job paying a salary of 50k. I have exactly 24k in student loans but I am living at home and have planned to mooch off my parents so I can hit my student loans as hard as possible. It's my goal to get them for sure paid off within two years, or sooner so I can move on with my life.
The problem is I desperately need a new car. I use a 2007 Honda Civic that luckily still works great. It at one point was kind of my car but while I was away at college it transitioned into more of a family car for my siblings to use as well. My parents bought it for me and so it isn't really mine. The other car we had recently broke down and so my 2 siblings and I have been forced to share the one car. (The car that recently broke down was a 2009 Toyota Camry) My other siblings are commuters who go to a local college so it isn't like at some point I'll get to reclaim "my" car.
Fortunately, my new job is remote so I won't be struggling to get to work. But I still would like a personal car that I can rely on for my own needs.
What is a fair price to pay for a car with my salary? I want to put a good down payment down and I have savings of about 4k. I hope to save more paychecks and have a down payment of around 5-8k before I officially start searching.
I don't know much about cars but the used car market seems bonkers right now. Some 2018 Toyota Camry's are only a few thousands cheaper than buying brand new. From what I remember about my high school personal finance class, new cars are a bad investment. But with the way things are right now I'm not sure what my options are.
I had hopes to get a car manufactured within the year 2015 or newer, while being under 100k miles, while being under 15k. (Potentially a big ask but I'm not a car girl so I have no idea) That standard doesn't seem possible with the current market so I'm also curious if it would be financially smart to buy an even older car. Sure I'd be paying less, but I'm also afraid of potential repairs due to an older condition. I'm also unsure if my budget of15k is much too high to be a smart decision. However, I don't have rent, I'm on my parents insurance, I have no bills to pay other than the loans. I'm in a lucky position and want to take advantage of it because I can't, nor do I want to be at home forever.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
(Also when I say new, I mean used. The car will just be new to me, not in general.)

Ive got a 2007 honda civic coupe, manual transmission with 95,000 miles. The curtain airbags went off, and the controller arm? Is messed up, with some damage to the front and back bumpers. Im trying to get rid of it, how much should I list it at?

Hello. I checked all the usual suspects like the relay, fuse and pressure. The clutch is turning and from what I can see the belt is not slipping either. What else could it be?

so I bought one of those 300 keys spare fuse replacement kits from eBay for about 10 bucks just to have and now I want to see about using it.
this the type of fuse my car uses: https://i.imgur.com/qZwqqk2.jpg
these are some of the fuses that came: https://i.imgur.com/VQNvaXa.jpg
this is the tester: https://i.imgur.com/M52yaIN.jpg
my first question is are these fuses safe to use? when i bought them i thought they were just fuses and if anything happens theyll blow but now im a little concerned about their quality since they arent painted with their amperage (like my 20 year old fuses in the car) and instead has a little diagram.
second even though i pulled a 20amp spare fuse and compared it against the new 20 amp the one i need right now is the red 10amp. the one in the car, like the yellows here, have "n" shapes but the new red ones have the swiggle like in the picture. surely its just a design thing but i wanna make sure theyre the same before i cause any damage.
third, and this might be a stupid one, but what are the shorter fuses for? i put 2 yellows in the picture to show you what i mean. the box has bigger fuses too but the shorter ones and the "normal" ones are in the same "square" so are they interchangeable?
and finally is the tester safe to use? i saw a video on youtube that said all i need to do is connect the alligator clip to metal and then use the tester end on the opening of the top of the fuses. just wanna make sure that using a cheap tester is safe.
thanks for all the help

Hi all! I’m buying a new car because our beloved Volvo died and it’s very likely going to be a forester. I’ve visited local dealerships, checked online on all the platforms and driven to the nearest large city twice to see/test some. I’ve got two really good options right now and wanted to get some input. I’m doing all the appropriate steps to check history and get indirections done so it’s more of a forester generation question.
First one is a 2017 touring at a dealership with blind spot detection, all the bells and whistles etc. price and kms are right so I’m planning to go see in person but it seems like a fine option that fits my budget and wish /want list.
Other one is a private sale of a 2007 forester that we almost put an offer on yesterday. One owner, regularly serviced, very lol kms, fantastic visibility, huge moon roof, drove great. Price is half of the new one and we’d hope to barter them down a bit more. I’ve been checking reviews and this 2007 really does seem like a ringer that could last for years and we could maybe even sell to our kids. I like that it has just an automatic transmission (vs CVT), less fiddle faddle (I’m old school - first car I drive was my moms 1981 Honda civic hatchback with manual transmission) and we can always install an updated interface to charge our phones etc.
My only worry is that because it’s older I’ll end up with some kind of unfixable random problem (our Volvo has some kind of weird electronic problem with the crank shaft sensor that nobody can fix) - defs don’t need two mid 2000s cars with ECU/TCU problems.
Should I get the fancy new one that’s 10 years newer or the classic reliable 07?
Edit to add the ‘17 sold - it was available for a day. Definitely a sellers market out there. 😯

Hey, I hope someone is kind enough to give me advice on what to. I have a 2007 118i bmw and my EPS (electric power steering) stopped working about 3 weeks ago, i've been driving like my grandad used to. I took my car to the dealership for a factory recall and asked them to take a glance at the EPS and tell me what the problem is. According to them the EPS is not getting power, i was excited at first, as i thought it's probably my battery. I checked my battery for the right voltage and leakage current and everything seemed fine. Then i checked all of the ports on the power distribution box (on the battery) to see if any fuses were blown, but that seemed to be fine aswell. Now i'm a bit puzzled on what to do next
What also deserves a mention is that about a year ago my EPS would just randomly go out when starting my car, but then this problem just randomly disappeared until now
Do i try to find any broken cables? Do i take it to the mechanic? Are these the signs that my EPS is completely gone? What would you do?
I'm a student and just got myself a job so i don't really have money to get the entire EPS replaced and don't really want to get it to a mechanic if it is an easily done job.

Hello all, I am posting here today to see if I could get some advice on what may be affecting my 2008 Honda Civic. I don't necessarily expect an exact answer but knowing where to start is something and maybe other civic owners have had similar issues?
So, my current civic just won't start. That is to say, the engine won't turn on or rev up. The problem occurred a while a go where when I turned off the car it just would not start anymore. I tried using jumper cables right after, and even tried two different cars, but nothing would happen. Not even the lights or radio. Nor any whirring or any mechanical engine sound.
I don't know much about cars, but since then, I have tried changing out the battery twice, jumping it again, and checking some fuses (admittedly I am still unsure if I did it properly). None of those seem to get the engine going.
HOWEVER, one distinction now (from the original breaking down) is that I am able to get the lights, radio, and other electrical components go turn on as I turn the key once. Everything works as expected. The issue comes when I turn the key again to turn the engine on. It all shuts down, without any mechanical sound again (no engine sound). And it stays shut down for perhaps a few hours and comes back (I've never really timed it). ONLY ONCE did it rev the engine after 2 months of inactivity, but it didn't start. Does anyone have any advice on what the issue may be? Or what to do? Has anyone else had an issue like this?
I am considering taking it to the Honda dealership, but as it won't start I'd have to pay for towing. Any advice or suggestions would be helpful. Thanks all.

Hello all, I am posting here today to see if I could get some advice on what may be affecting my 2008 Honda Civic. I don't necessarily expect an exact answer but knowing where to start is something.
So, my current car just won't start. That is to say, the engine won't turn on or rev up. The problem occurred a while a go where when I turned off the car it just would not start anymore. I tried using jumper cables right after, and even tried two different cars, but nothing would happen. Not even the lights or radio. Nor any whirring or any mechanical engine sound.
While I am not a mechanic, since then, I have tried changing out the battery twice, jumping it again, and checking some fuses (admittedly I am still unsure if I did it properly). None of those seem to get the engine going.
HOWEVER, one distinction now (from the original breaking down) is that I am able to get the lights, radio, and other electrical components go turn on as I turn the key once. Everything works as expected. The issue comes when I turn the key again to turn the engine on. It all shuts down, without any mechanical sound again (no engine sound). And it stays shut down for perhaps a few hours and comes back (I've never really timed it). ONLY ONCE did it rev the engine after 2 months of inactivity, but it didn't start.
​
Does anyone have any advice on what the issue may be? Or what to do? I am considering taking it to the Honda dealership, but as it won't start I'd have to pay for towing. And I don't know what my cheapest option is, as having to pay for towing (twice at worse, round trip) to have it fixed seems pricey. Any advice or suggestions would be helpful. Thanks all.

Hi everyone.
Hope you all are going to have a wonderful week ahead.
Not a good question, but has anyone experienced a T-Bone with a Pre-2010 car before? Or perhaps would you know anyone who has had it? What are the things to expect? What are better cautions aside from continuous mirror and blindspot checking?
My apologies for such an outstanding question. The reasoning for the term "pre-2010" is that the extra car side airbags were not an absolute standard before 2010, at least from my current observations . I'm driving a Honda Civic 2007 without such additional protection, which concerns me since there is quite a number of T Bone/Head Collision car accidents on the news these days. At the same time, I'm not in a good spot for switching into another car. Plus, the public transport is not available for my shift work situation in my local area (no train and trams as well).

So I’ve been working on my 1995 gmc G2500 van. It’s been having electrical issues and blowing the break fuse at the box. I think I have it nailed down to what wire and have wiring diagrams of what does where. My question is, how to I isolate the wire and figure out where the fault is?
Any help would be amazing.
Thank you!

I have a 2007 honda fit and it suddenly died while I was driving, no battery light and it was very quick and sudden (battery and alternator have been changed in the last year and a half). If I turn the key there is no power to any accessories. Only my hazards and locks work. which don't need the key to work in the first place. My battery has over 12 volts and I got an ignition switch from the scrapyard switched it but still nothing. Main fuses seem ok but I ll keep looking. Anybody encounter a similar situation or have any tips where else I should look? Any help very appreciatyed thanks

Wednesday morning 07:20am, wife wakes me up & tells me her bike won't start.
I go outside & try to start her, the engine tries to turn over but very slowly, I immediately think the battery is flat & decided to pop it on charge.
Two hours later about 10:00am the battery charger confirms the battery is fully charged so I disconnect the + & - clamps & turn the ignition key, the dashboard does its usual post check & the engine management light indicates no issues.
I pull the back brake & depress the ignition start button & she turns over & purrs away, I decide to leave her idling for a few minutes before turning her off, however before turning her off I go to replace the little rubber caps on the battery terminals & I notice the negative bolt on the battery terminal feels really hot, I turn her off.
Couple of hours later I decide to start her again to have a run to Tesco, I turn the key & nothing, no post check just nothing.
I call my wonderful mechanic (the guy is superb), he comes out & checks her over, tells me I've somehow managed to blow the main fuse, he pops in a new fuse & hey presto she starts, he runs her for a few seconds then turns her off, tries to start her again (nothing) she performs a post check but refuses to start, there's a small black box nestled above the battery he tells me it's part of the "electronic ignition system" (think I remembered that right) he takes the box off checks it over & pops it back on, tries her again still nothing, he pulls the little black box off again & takes it back to his workshop, tries it in another PCX he has & it starts first time, he tries it repeatedly & the other PCX starts on the button every time so it's not that box. Since then he's been through pretty much everything, he's checked the the fuses, the battery, the ignition, the entire wiring loom, the starter motor, and to be blunt I've never heard him get angry before but he actually swore in front of me as in his own words, (This makes no fucking sense, no fucking sense at all, Honda's don't do this, it's a fucking Honda, Honda's don't fucking do this, this makes no sense at all) ,,, I think he's more pissed off at the fact he can't work out what's wrong with her.
He's been working on her on & off for the best part of three days now & we are still at the point where she refuses to start.
I obviously have full faith in my mechanic however I'm throwing this out there in the hopes that one of you may have suffered with this issue or know somebody else that's been through it, if so I'd very much appreciate any advice you could offer as my wife really misses her little PCX.
Thanks for reading & I will answer any questions as best as I can.

TLDR

Do I need to use DHCPv6 to request a Prefix Delegation from the Comcast CPE, or can I just use radvd on my Linux-based router to claim a route to a subnet of the /56 Comcast assigned, or do I need to do both, or do I have it all wrong?
The TL version follows. It is very TL.

Environment

I recently had Comcast Business installed in my home, with service including an IPv4 /29 static block. Based on what the Comcast CPE's web interface shows me, I also got an IPv6 /56 assigned.
For static IP service, Comcast requires the subscriber (me) to use their CPE, which is a combination DOCSIS modem, IP router, firewall, network switch, WiFi access point, coffee maker, etc. I don't want to use the Comcast CPE for more than I have to (because it does most of those things poorly).
I put a Linux box running Debian 11.7 "bullseye" between the Comcast CPE and my home LAN. To make discussion easier, I'll say the Linux box is named moya. moya has two Ethernet interfaces. One is plugged into the Comcast CPE. The other is connected to my private LAN, with my own switch, my own wireless access point, my own coffee maker, etc. Obligatory ASCII diagram:

[wall jack]---coax---[Comcast CPE]---UTP---[moya] UTP [WAP]---UTP---[switch]---UTP---[PC] 

From watching the output of radvdump(8) running on moya, I know that the Comcast CPE is sending Router Advertisement (RA) messages for a prefix that is the first /64 from the /56 prefix I saw in the web UI.

Configuration

I had no problem configuring moya with one of the static IPv4 addresses, in a typical iptables NAT setup. I'm running DHCPv4 on the LAN side as well (plus a caching resolver and a few other things). I like to think I know that stuff pretty well.
On the other hand, IPv6 was fairly new territory for me. I've done a lot of reading, including books, RFCs, and web pages, but it's not completely clear to me how it is supposed to work in practice.

Prefix Delegation

From my readings on IPv6, I at first thought it seemed like I was expected to run a DHCPv6 client on the Comcast-facing side of moya, to request an IPv6 Prefix Delegation (PD).
I configured the Comcast-facing interface on moya as inet6 auto with dhcp 1 and request_prefix. That's Debian-speak for "use SLACC to configure the interface address, and also run a DHCPv6 client solely to request a Prefix Delegation". That seemed to work; I got a different /64 subnet from the same /56.
I configured DHCPv6 and radvd for the LAN side. PCs got IPv6 leases and seemed to be working. I also had some PCs manually configured with static IPv6 addresses. I was even able to configure iptables to allow select traffic in to the IPv6 GUAs configured on my private LAN -- port forwarding need not apply. Life was good.

Problems Arise

Then Comcast had an outage for an hour or two. Their CPE got rebooted as part of coming back up. Everything trying to reach outside IPv6 from the private LAN side stopped working. I could ping moya from a PC, but no further. moya could ping anything in the outside world, though.
Logs showed DHCPv6 still running on moya, still renewing the Prefix Delegation periodically, and still getting the same /64 I had before.
Wireshark showed that traffic was crossing moya and leaving the Comcast-facing interface as it should, but replies never came back. moya itself could ping the CPE or other sites using IPv6, though.
Further, pinging my LAN PC IPv6 addresses from an outside host (something that worked before) resulted in "Destination unreachable: Address unreachable" coming back from the Comcast CPE. I never saw anything on the customer-facing side of the CPE with my sniffer.

Router Advertisements

Eventually the thought occurred to me that IPv6 routers are supposed to send RAs periodically, and I had not configured moya to do that on the Comcast side. Presumably moya should be sending RAs saying it has a route to my /64 PD.
So in radvd.conf, I added an interface section for the Comcast-facing interface, with a single route subsection for the PD net. I put in AdvRoutePreference medium and AdvRouteLifetime 180 because the RAs from the CPE were using those values for the default route.
After a while (it might have been minutes or hours, I'm not sure), IPv6 started working again. I can get out using IPv6, and I can ping my LAN PCs using their IPv6 GUAs.

Fixed or Kludged?

Now I'm wondering if I need to run DHCPv6 to request a PD at all? Could I have just picked a /64 out of that /56, configured radvd to advertise a route to it, and wait for the Comcast CPE to catch on?
I could just try that and see if it works, of course, but since I'm basically fumbling around in the dark here, I thought maybe it was time to ask more experienced people.
In particular, either way, I'm wondering how a customer router and its RAs should co-exist with the ISP router. RAs contain things like the M and O flags that "hint" about the parameters of the link. Should I try and make my RAs match the CPE RAs in that regard? I am assuming I should not advertise the CPE-side prefix? Or should I do that, too, so all RAs on the link agree?
RFC-4861 (particularly section 6.2.7) would seem to be the controlling standard, but it doesn't make many recommendations for operational robustness, it only defines what's strictly required or forbidden. Plus it is from 2007; more recent experience might be a better guide in the real world.
If there's a manual/RFC/FAQ/whatever I should be reading that covers all this, by all means, hit me over the head with it.
If you made it this far, thanks for reading, if nothing else.
EDIT1: Clarify behavior of moya in the failure mode.

This is a strange one. I broke down with starter motor failure on Friday evening and today I replaced the starter motor and the car starts just fine now. One thing that has happened though is that the heater blower fan for the climate control (it's not the version with the digital readout) has stopped working. I don't think that the two events are related, but the fan not working has me scratching my head. I found a slightly melted 30A fuse (F22?) in the fusebox at the side of the dashboard (the fuse is intact though, it's not blown) and I've replaced it with a new one, but the handbook states that this should be a 40A fuse. I've stuck a 30A in for now but I still get no blower. The air con switch lights up when I press it and I can hear the air con pump turn on and off.
Are there any other fuses that I need to check? I've searched for fuse box diagrams and have found loads of them but they seem to have the fuse box images reversed, as if it's Europe or the US, not the UK. My dashboard fuse box is on the right. The numbers of fuses are also different.
The blower was running right up until I parked up and I came back to no starter motor on the key.
I'm confused at this point, how do I trouble shoot this?