Semi truck lug nut torque specs

That’s a lot of damage

2023.05.28 08:59 TheSkepticalEngineer That’s a lot of damage

That’s a lot of damage
Totaled up the cost of my first build so far… it’s not done yet and there’s still a few more tools and things I need to buy before it’s “done”. It’s a bit more expensive than I thought it would be.
submitted by TheSkepticalEngineer to Miguns [link] [comments]


2023.05.28 07:15 OlacAttack [WTS] KAC URX 3.1 rail, KAC micro irons, Glock 19 gen 5 slide, Toolcraft bcg, buffer assembly, grips

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/UZ2ueMl
Prices include shipping. PP F&F or add 3%
Add ons
$11 LMT take down pins, new w FCD springs/detents
$3 Aero castle nut, unused but opened
submitted by OlacAttack to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]


2023.05.28 02:57 Desperate-Car-Wife Cars, Rucks, Turbos... Oh My! Part 6

Desperate Car Wife: A Journey in the Making (part.6)
During those 10 years with the Mazda Protege, and since my hubby used it for work a lot after we had our son, he ended up buying a white '94 Nissan Maxima from the same friend that sold him the '72 Camaro back when we first met... It, of course, got the "JB Treatment"... but this time on a budget. This had a lot more horsepower than the Mazda! I actually enjoyed driving it too! Even though it didn't have the same rims or low profile tires or a 6 Disc-CD Changer... it did have some beats and I really liked the G-force when I stepped on it! I don't need a whole lot of hp to enjoy speed.. As I've said before, everything in moderation! I love love love watching others drive with crazy horsepower, but I don't think you'll ever see me drive anything over 300hp!
A couple years later, we would eventually sell the Maxima and got a '95 Dodge RAM 1500... We had this one for only a couple of years and then he eventually sold the RAM because he found a '93 Dodge Dakota Sport that needed to be brought back from the dead... This poor thing had been abandoned in a ditch and sat in a tow yard for 10 years! Needless to say, there were problems galore... literally almost lost a tire a half mile down the road from the tow yard we bought it from, just before I jumped on the freeway! Got the lug nuts tightened and back on the road... Headed straight to the nearest DMV for title and registration... Hour or so later, we walked out on 2 flat tires... Luckily we had a small jack in our other car, so he was able to pull the 2 flats off and drove to the nearest tire shop. 2 tires (balanced and mounted) later, we were back on the road again.. After a few days, we found some rusted out holes in the exhaust system and discovered that the catalytic converter had been removed.. So we got that fixed promptly. Replaced the spark plugs and wires, fixed the E-vap, practically replaced everything under the hood and then some... and still failed smog! Failed it 3 times to be exact! My hubby scratched his head and was mind boggled at the numbers from the failed tests.. Everything that had to do with the smog system was replaced with brand new parts, but it was still putting out high numbers for some reason!! So he googled his readings.... several forums like Cartalk /FBgroups/other auto forums outside of Reddit, and many many replies later, he was told that something had to be wrong with the exhaust system, either the wrong Cat or a hole in the welding... So #1 he found out that the catalytic converter model wasn't correct for the truck! We went back and got that fixed for free by the same place who installed it... #2 after they installed the Correct Cat, and failed to smog AGAIN, we found out there was a hole in the welding job from the NEW Cat!!! Dudes didn't believe my hubby at first, so he asked if he could show them with a mirror, and sure enough.. at the very top of the pipe connecting to the Cat, had a missed weld an inch long!!!
Not too long after that fiasco, maybe a couple of months... The driver's side door nearly fell off when I opened it, getting out! That was one heavy door too! Nearly pulled me out of my seat! PickNPull here we come!!!! Unfortunately, no luck there.. we checked out some from the smaller shops around town and got lucky that we found a red one (the truck was emerald green...). Now we just needed a DIY, cheapest, paint job was in store! He needed 6+ spray cans.... several trips to multiple stores and ordering online to get those dang cans of Emerald Green,, the door was done and looked fairly decent for a spray can job!
Then came the tires... Now I don't quite remember how he got this set, but what I do remember is they were way too big for this little truck! But he loved them and really wanted to make them work.. Still working on a budget, since we drained a lot into the entire exhaust system and everything SMOG related... he gets them on, they are so big and stick out like crazy and couldn't make normal turns without rubbing. I hated it!!! It was sooooooo embarrassing when they rubbed while pulling out of a tight parking lot! Everyone looked when it happened!!! Nothing to see here y'all!!! He then went on and installed an Alpine stereo system with Pioneer sub (Slimbox) and speakers... He then got the idea to spray paint the hood flat black. It wasn't bad.. but it wasn't great by any means either... his words... not mine!
Needless to say, I found my first Dodge truck that I didn't like LOL. I had been spoiled with power windows and auto transmissions for quite some time by then and really hated the tires, the big shifting stick, how far 5th gear was for me, no power windows, no nothing! I complained about that truck till the day he finally sold it! He turned down multiple cash offers for several years, and then he finally broke when he needed to make room for another truck he wanted... Another truck that I would end up hating for only one reason LOL; it was a biggy in my book! But that's for another post!!
Part. 7 coming soon
submitted by Desperate-Car-Wife to DesperateCarWife [link] [comments]


2023.05.28 01:10 OlacAttack [WTS] KAC URX 3.1 rail, KAC sights, G19.5 slide, Toolcraft BCG, grips, small parts

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/HcVqmXa
Prices include shipping. PP F&F or add 3%
Add ons
$11 LMT take down pins, new w FCD springs/detents
$3 Aero castle nut, unused but opened
submitted by OlacAttack to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]


2023.05.27 20:38 microphohn Pressure Washer Specs are mostly lies or misunderstanding. Here’s what you need to know

I recently had occasion to survey what YouTube knows about pressure washers and specs, and was disappointed. I work in fluid power and want to help make this clearer for you. We’ll focus on gas-powered cold water units for this discussion.
It’s useful to remember that pumps don’t make pressure. Pumps generate flow. Because pressure washer pumps are positive displacement, they have nearly constant flow at a given pump speed. If you have a 3.5gpm pressure washer and have no nozzle in the lance, it is flowing 3.5gpm at maybe 40psi just like it will flow 3.5gpm at a couple thousand PSI. The flow is largely constant if pump speed is constant.
As you add restriction to your pump’s outlet flow, the pressure rises. This demands more work from the engine. Thus, the actual operating pressure of your pressure washer is determined by how much restriction you place on the outlet flow. Eventually if you add enough restriction, you will raise pressure high enough that the pump will try to protect itself and open the unloader. (Note, this is a pump protection device, NOT A REGULATOR). Or, if the pump is slightly oversized for the engine, the engine will lug down in RPM before the unloader opens.
The correct way to set the operating pressure of your pressure washer is therefore to vary the restriction on the outlet flow. We do this with changing orifice sizes in your tips. A small orifice like a #3 will have more restriction and higher pressure than a larger orifice like a #6. There are charts available online the correct orifice size to restriction for a given pump flow.
Let’s look at pump and engine matching by analyzing this Northern Tool unit:Northern Tool
This uses a Honda GX390 with a CAT 66dX 3.5gpm pump.
The GX390 has the following power curve: Link The Honda engine provides about 17lb-ft of torque at 3600rpm. The CAT pump specs are here
We can see that the pump shows 14.8lb-ft of torque is required to overcome 4000psi of pressure at the rated flow of 3.5gpm and 3400 pump RPM.
This means the engine always has more power than load the pump can place on it. This pump cannot pull the engine below it’s rated operating speed.
But with this pump on this engine, you can never get more than 3.5gpm flow.
The same engine could be fitted with a 4gpm pump and use all of the engine’s available power when it was pushed as high as 4000psi. The 4 gpm pump is well matched and gets more useful work from the engine than the 3.5gpm pump does. But it also costs quite a bit more.
CAT even offers a 5gpm pump compatible with the GX390’s drive flange and shaft. This pump specs show that the GX390 would only be good for just over 3000psi with this pump. The GX390 doesn’t have enough torque to overcome higher pressures at the higher rated flow of the 5gpm pump. But for most real world applications, the 5gpm is likely the better option for maximizing the GX390 performance. But understanding why requires understanding how pressure and flow contribute to cleaning effectiveness.
Ever think about why a 15 degree nozzle has “more power” than a 40 degree nozzle even at the same flow and pressure from the washer? You probably intuited that its because the wider nozzle spreads out the spray. Pressure is force times area. With the same pressure, the more area, the less force. This is why getting closer to the surface makes such a difference— it concentrates the spray to a small area and increases the force.
Just by varying technique, you can make a 2500psi unit destroy a wood deck or vinyl siding just like a 4000psi unit. And if you stand back far enough, you can make a 4000psi unit as ineffective as a tiny electric washer.
The point here is that real world pressure varies a lot in practice and that any pressure higher than what is needed is a waste of power. If it takes 2000psi is do what you need to do, more pressure won’t do it better. MORE FLOW is the way to go.
There are only a tiny handful of applications where extremely high pressures (over 3500psi) are useful: removing barnacles from ships, cleaning sewers, etc. For most residential and commercial cleaning roles— homes, concrete, cars, etc, pressures as low as 2000psi are sufficient and the higher flow allows you to work faster and save some fatigue.
submitted by microphohn to Tools [link] [comments]


2023.05.27 18:55 Spearitgun After this refresh, it drives like a different car. Unreal.

After this refresh, it drives like a different car. Unreal.
Just completed a lot of work I had been planning and acquiring parts for over the last two years. Big brakes all four corners, new sway bars, custom valving and spring rate Ohlin’s DFV grand touring spec long stroke coilovers, and some CE28SLs wrapped in some Ventus RS4s. Extended length ARP wheel studs, Ti open ended lug nuts and Ti top hat bolts for the coilovers are the finishing touches. Need to paint the BYS front lip and install and that will be my last mod for the time being. Eventually I want to add buckets, lower my seat height, and shed weight with a full Ti exhaust, removal of the soft top and addition of a full carbon hardtop. Long time lurker, thanks for looking.
submitted by Spearitgun to S2000 [link] [comments]


2023.05.27 17:10 kimorathecosmicwolf New to the sub, just seeking knowledge

Hi there! I just discovered this sub and so happy I did. Not a lot of trans peeps I know who support gun ownership where I stay right now so this is like a breath or fresh air for me.
Little background: grew up in a family where most of the men hunted. My first trip was at age 12 and I cried profusely when I shot a rabbit and had to finish it and gut it in the field with my uncles so I did not get invited on any other trips. However my grandfather took pity (also I think he knew, goddam genius that one) and felt I should be familiar with and know how to shoot a range of weapons. So I was actually a really good shot.
Unfortunately I just never had a community I felt comfortable in to continue that practice when he passed away so I let it fall to the wayside. At one point after I was maybe 6 years into my transition, I did buy a .22 long range rifle and have been to a shooting range a handful of times since 2018. I'm honestly not good at names and remembering specs off the top of my head about guns, and bullet calibers and what all that stuff actually translates to irl but I'd like to change that.
I want to learn about different types of guns used in self defense. I'm sick of being scared all the time when I travel outside my safe zone. Like what kind of handgun should I keep in my truck when I travel? What semi auto weapons are quick on the deploy? Whats best for home defense? How do I find other trans folks to connect with in my community I can learn from and go shooting with?
I'm scared. I live in a state that has passed legislation to protect trans people but I travel a lot to see family in red states and will be traveling more for my new job soon. I just want to be able to protect myself and my peoples...
On a brighter side I do really enjoy shooting guns. I think it's fun and a thrill. Pew pew lol. Nothing like going out into the middle of no where BLM with my boys and blasting clay pigeons with great grandpas 16 gauge lol.
Anyway thanks for being here. Hope yall are well and staying safe out there in this mad mad world.💜🤍💙🌈
submitted by kimorathecosmicwolf to transguns [link] [comments]


2023.05.27 04:45 Kenny_Ol Accident repair

I have 3 rams, I love them and will always fix them. I am a mechanic of 20 years. I don't have a shop at the moment. I work in another field altogether. So something serious happens, and it has to go to someone else. And I can get a little anal about my repairs. New area new mechanic etc. My 2014 hemi got hit right at the front passenger wheel. Broke the lower control arm, tie rods some body work, not really serious. I almost could have done the repairs in my garage taken the panels for paint and gone for an alignment. I took it to a highly recommended shop. All they saw was a bloated insurance claim. All state wanted used parts so they doubled down. I got this truck back, missing a lug nut. Both grease boots on the axles threw their grease boot on old was held on with a zip tie. Passenger door didn't open. Tint scratched. Grease all over the paint. Pack of cigarettes in my center console. Dirty parts on my back seat. The list goes on and on. It was an easy job, the hardest part was in alignment, which they subbed out to the shop across the street. End total; $10,136
submitted by Kenny_Ol to ram_trucks [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 23:46 watchmaker82 GEICO roadside assistance commercial with Spanish guitar

https://www.ispot.tv/ad/wwxK/geico-emergency-roadside-service-the-flat-tire-guitar-solo
Where do I even start with this horrifying dumpster fire? I don't like Geico commercials because I think it probably pumps the rates up for customers, especially when they air them 3 million times a day. But I especially hate them when they are as brain burningly inane stupid and just plain misinformed as this pile of horse dung.
Family pulls over and gets a flat tire. The Dad starts to move to get out and change the tire. Apparently he's the most useless person with tools who has ever existed because his wife stops him before he can even leave the car, and dials up the mobile app. It's not even raining or anything she just has no faith in the man.
First I can't stand the wife and her fucking holier than now I know everything and you don't attitude. What an absolute Karen.
Then she clicks on I have a flat tire in the app, and then has to somehow tap her position to tell them where she is? Because the Geico app is the only one that doesn't have a use my current location button?
It then it shows the assistance truck pulling up behind them as she's tapping her location in the app. Not only is it instantaneous, he was on his way to them before they even got a flat tire! I don't know if any of you have ever waited for a tow company, but the shortest wait I ever had was like two and a half hours. So this portrayal of an instantaneous teleporting tow truck is fucking bogus.
Now the whole point of getting a tow truck to come out instead of letting dad do it is they wanted expert assistance right? Well apparently the tow truck driver doesn't know what he's doing either.
The flat is on the front and the tow truck driver puts the temporary spare on the front. Unless you're going less than 10 MI, which I doubt is the case because they are shown on a freeway probably on a family trip, you never ever ever put the temporary spare on the front tire. It is recommended to replace a rear wheel and tire, and put that rear tire on the front. This is the recommended practice because your front tires do all of the braking and steering, and the temporary spare isn't good at either of those things because it has a lot less contact patch and can't stand as much stress.
Yes this is standard even on rear drive cars. It is a safety issue.
So then they showed doofus tow truck driver tightening up the last of the lug nuts with a spider wrench. (I don't know why the tow truck guy doesn't carry a torque wrench with him.) AND IT MAKES A FUCKING RATCHET SOUND. First of all there is no ratchet mechanism in the spider wrench it's a solid lump of metal. Second, even if there were, if it's making the ratchet sound when you're tightening to the right, it's set to loosen and you're not tightening Jack fucking God damn shit.
The look of satisfaction on the smug Karen's face at the end is the final turd on top of the pile of road apples. Because heaven forbid a guy should want to do something himself and save his family 3 hours waiting by the side of the goddamn Road.
I hate a lot of commercials but I don't hate everything about a commercial like I do with this one. Fuck this commercial and fuck everybody who worked on it and fuck everybody who approved it and fuck everyone who works at Geico.
Fin.
submitted by watchmaker82 to CommercialsIHate [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 23:06 StaplePT Why is this torque wrench behaving this way ? Need urgent help.

Why is this torque wrench behaving this way ? Need urgent help.
It's clicking the entire time regardless of whether the lug nut has been tightened a bit or not. I don't understand at all. I thought it was supposed to click only when it reaches the torque. I tried to rotate the top black part thinking it's set in counterclockwise but it didn't change anything.
( Very frustrated rant below - not required reading)
First the jack wouldn't work and I couldn't fix it so had to use the emergency jack to change the tires and now this brand new torque wrench. A 1 hour job is now in its 3rd hour and counting. I'm still on tire #1. I think from now on I'll fork over the $60 twice a year to get my mechanic to do it and fuck if he over torques it. I don't understand how you guys tolerate so much going wrong when you try to do it yourself or maybe I'm just bad at doing things myself. You all and every YouTube video makes it sound simple and easy like nothing can go wrong. It's such a time suck and an emotional drain. I'm jealous of those of you who can one time pay $200 for your tools and save money over the years.
submitted by StaplePT to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 19:03 Saltiest_Sailor [WTS] MOVING SALE Everything Must Go - Geissele MK8 DDC 13.5" + DD 16" Midgas Lightweight Profile Cold Hammer Forged CL Upper / PA 5X Prism 5.56 ACSS Aurora / HMB Enhanced AR15 BCG / CH Precision FN Pistol ACRO Plate / Aero M4E1 Barrel Nuts

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/1tN05D9
- Payment Methods That I Accept: PayPal Friends and Family, Zelle, or Venmo Friends Payments.
- I DO NOT Accept PayPal Goods and Services or Venmo Goods and Services Payments.
- If the Payment Provider asks that you put a note, just put food emojis. No firearms/firearms accessories related notes.
EVERYTHING MUST GO, IF SOMETHING ISN'T MARKED AS SOLD SHOOT YOUR SHOT WITH AN OFFER.
//////////////////////// ITEM(S): ////////////////////////
- HM Defense AR-15 5.56/.223 HMB Battle Bolt Carrier Group: Brand New. 9310 Steel Bolt / 4340 Hardened Steel Cam Pin / Nitride Black Finish
Sells for $119.95 New. Your Price is $90 Shipped
- C and H Precision FN 509, FN 510, and FN 545 Aimpoint ACRO Plate: Brand new.
Sells for $64.95 New, Your Price is $40 Shipped
- Aero M4E1 Enhanced Upper Barrel Nuts: Both brand new.
$15 Shipped Each - 2 Available
- Geissele 13.5" DDC MK8 + Daniel Defense 16" Midlength Gas Lightweight Cold Hammer Forged Chrome Lined Barrel + Aero Precision FDE Upper Receiver + Aero Precision Melonite Gas Tube + Pinned BCM 0.750" Low Profile Gas Block + NDZ Performance FDE Cerakoted Ejection Port Cover: Great condition.
Around 500 rounds. Some carbon buildup on end of barrel which can be removed with a CLP soak or some form of Carb-out. There is a small chip in the cerakote on the ejection port cover but you should be rattle-canning this upper anyway.
Gas block pinning done by D. Wilson Mfg. Barrel nut is torqued down to correct Geissele specs using Aeroshell 33 anti-seize grease. The rails crossbolts and set screws are secured with Loctite GO2 Gel/Glue (Heat Resistant Silicone-Based Loctite similar to Blue Loctite for a thread-locking capacity comparison).
IF BOUGHT NEW: Barrel $322.00 + Rail $316.89 + Upper Receiver $97.95 + Ejection Port Cover $15.99 + Gas Tube $16.14 + Pinned Gas Block $44.95 = $813.92 Total Not Including Shipping + Tax
YOUR PRICE: Barrel $250 + Rail $250 + Upper Receiver $75 + Ejection Port Cover $8 + Gas Tube $12 + Pinned Gas Block $40 = $635 Shipped Total
- PRIMARY ARMS 5X PRISM – SLX 5X GEN III ACSS 5.56 AURORA RETICLE with Killflash: Brand new.
Sells for $329.99 Scope + $30 Killflash New, Your Price is $280 + $15 = $295 Shipped
submitted by Saltiest_Sailor to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 18:53 olafpfj Lost a couple lug nuts after the dealership rotated my tires 2023 BRZ.

Had my oil changed after the break in period at the dealership and they rotated my tires as well. Not sure how long those two lug nuts have been missing. Checked the rest of the lug nuts and none of them were anywhere near spec and there were two more about ready to come loose. Had my wife buy a couple replacements and run them out to me so I got home safe. Needless to say I'm pretty pissed.
How big a stink should I make with the dealership?
submitted by olafpfj to ft86 [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 16:44 dj_ordje Mini Tutorial: Adding fuses to your Lynx Power-In

Mini Tutorial: Adding fuses to your Lynx Power-In
Unscrew the plastic holder (it's already got the m8 bolts in it in the picture). Add a M8x35 or M8x40 Bolt (M8x40 depicted) with two washers from the backside. Add another 5 washers, a fuse, the cable lug, another washer and a lock washer and finally a nut. Torque to 13nm.
submitted by dj_ordje to Victron [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 13:41 K8stuff My review of the Diamondback 0.4mm and 0.8mm nozzle on the Ender 3 S1 Pro (pics in comments)

Let me first pre-empt my review with three common troubleshooting techniques I am aware of.
- Dry Filament. I have used a known (to me) and stable filament. I have gotten great prints without much effort - even when printing a massive TPU sleeve for a back roller. I didn't have to change a thing apart from drying.
In addition to that I have used a new (to me) PETG filament. Some may remember my post about troubleshooting this blue stuff from Geeetech. Both spools have been dried for at least two days prior printing (PLA at 50c and PETG at 65-70c) and in addition to that I have continued drying whilst printing.
- Tramming. I only started printing two months or so ago and a Reddit user was so kind to DM me offering help (you know who you are, thank you) and he has since been talking to me almost daily. My bottom line, I know how tramming works now. I started with OEM, switched to yellow springs then silicone washers and now have a very stable bed using nuts and bolts. In fact, I know I shouldn’t have to but I tend to check tramming before each filament change and my first layers coming out mint every time.
- Z calibration. Again it’s spot on. First layers are always perfect and tend to be perfect throughout from layer 2 till 3000 :-)
- Bonus : Torque. I always torque nozzles based on vendor spec. Diamondback nozzles need to be torqued at 2.5nm
Now let’s talk about the nozzle. There are two main camps here. One finds them perfect and the other, not so much. I am in the not so much Camp.
First I must say I didn’t pay for them. I paid postage and import as these were a gift.
I have two sizes. 0.4mm and 0.8mm. I only used the 0.4mm as that is my known quantity (and quality).
I am aware of the fact you are supposed to print at lower temperature so that wasn’t the source of my problem. I spent almost 70hrs just printing 1st layers and temp towers to dial the temps in.
I also printed flow tests, checked advance pressure and overhang tests.
Basically I have done as much as I can to eliminate any doubt.
The nozzle has two problems for me (I am using the Ender 3 S1 Pro).
First, it’s physical design. It is different. To start, it is up to 1mm shorter (0.8mm was just 0.7mm shorter - the 0.4mm around 0.9 - 1mm depending on callipers used). Which in itself isn’t a problem as you can adjust z no problem, but unless you also move the block the nozzle is attached to, a bit down to compensate, the hot-end fan as well as BL Sensor will be VERY close to the print.
You literally have zero tolerance. In fact, it needs to be so perfect that unless you invest the time to adjust z physically and through the printer OS, you end up hitting the print (potentially) with the fan or the BL Sensor - I had both.
Another issue with the design is just, well, it’s design. When you compare the photos you can see they are indeed different. The difference is bad enough for the silicon shoe not to sit properly.
The shoe is essentially not able to get completely over the nozzle and onto the block, leaving a tiny gap between shoe and block.
That in turn seem to be enough to throw out the temperature regulation. Which is likely the issue I was facing. Plus of course the fact that vibration is never good for not-perfected-fitted parts.
I always had perfect 0.2mm first layers but if the print took more than an hour, all hell broke loose. Even my go to PLA turned into a bowl of spaghetti.
Because the shoe does not sit perfectly it eventually makes its way down and in my case caught the print eventually which in turn destroyed it (the silicone shoe that is). Basically it hit the infill that managed to tear on the shoe, breaking it.
Second problem is temperature related. You need to print cooler with it, which in turn isn’t a problem, but due to the above issues, keeping a perfect temperature for hours or days is impossible.
So in a nutshell. Is this a good nozzle ? Probably. I mean diamond is harder than any abrasive filament so yea, perfect use case.
Does it work for the Ender S1 Pro ? I do not think so. If it would be just for the adjustments required (like pulling off the nozzle, physically move it by 1mm and redo z from dusk till dawn) then yea. Probably worth the effort to invest a few hours. It certainly wouldn't be plug and play though.
But unless Diamondback can provide a better fitting silicone shoe designed for their nozzle and your specific printer - purchase with caution.
Like I say, I am pretty good in dialling in printers but I spent about 70hrs with an already level bed trying to make it work. But FOR ME at least. It’s a no go.
I took it off, put Creality upgraded nozzle back on, eyeballed Z, moved it down during first layer print once, second print perfect. Check the pictures. So yea. I am back to non Diamond nozzles.
submitted by K8stuff to 3Dprinting [link] [comments]


2023.05.25 19:29 TheCornerator Drunk driver lost his tire crossing the intersection

Drunk driver lost his tire crossing the intersection
No one was hurt, but the drivers gf took his keys and left with the good truck, so he had to sleep in the ol' wonky wonder in the video here. Tire came off because he didnt check his lug nuts when he picked the vehicle up from a buddy who was working on it.
submitted by TheCornerator to IdiotsInCars [link] [comments]


2023.05.25 17:41 Saltiest_Sailor [WTS] MOVING SALE - Geissele MK8 DDC 13.5" + DD 16" Midgas Lightweight Profile Cold Hammer Forged CL Upper / PA 5X Prism 5.56 ACSS Aurora / HMB Enhanced AR15 BCG / CH Precision FN Pistol ACRO Plate / Aero M4E1 Barrel Nuts

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/1tN05D9
- Payment Methods That I Accept: PayPal Friends and Family, Zelle, or Venmo Friends Payments.
- I DO NOT Accept PayPal Goods and Services or Venmo Goods and Services Payments.
- If the Payment Provider asks that you put a note, just put food emojis. No firearms/firearms accessories related notes.
EVERYTHING MUST GO, IF SOMETHING ISN'T MARKED AS SOLD SHOOT YOUR SHOT WITH AN OFFER.
//////////////////////// ITEM(S): ////////////////////////
- HM Defense AR-15 5.56/.223 HMB Battle Bolt Carrier Group: Brand New. 9310 Steel Bolt / 4340 Hardened Steel Cam Pin / Nitride Black Finish
Sells for $119.95 New. Your Price is $90 Shipped
- C and H Precision FN 509, FN 510, and FN 545 Aimpoint ACRO Plate: Brand new.
Sells for $64.95 New, Your Price is $40 Shipped
- Aero M4E1 Enhanced Upper Barrel Nuts: Both brand new.
$15 Shipped Each - 2 Available
- Geissele 13.5" DDC MK8 + Daniel Defense 16" Midlength Gas Lightweight Cold Hammer Forged Chrome Lined Barrel + Aero Precision FDE Upper Receiver + Aero Precision Melonite Gas Tube + Pinned BCM 0.750" Low Profile Gas Block + NDZ Performance FDE Cerakoted Ejection Port Cover: Great condition.
Around 500 rounds. Some carbon buildup on end of barrel which can be removed with a CLP soak or some form of Carb-out. There is a small chip in the cerakote on the ejection port cover but you should be rattle-canning this upper anyway.
Gas block pinning done by D. Wilson Mfg. Barrel nut is torqued down to correct Geissele specs using Aeroshell 33 anti-seize grease. The rails crossbolts and set screws are secured with Loctite GO2 Gel/Glue (Heat Resistant Silicone-Based Loctite similar to Blue Loctite for a thread-locking capacity comparison).
IF BOUGHT NEW: Barrel $322.00 + Rail $316.89 + Upper Receiver $97.95 + Ejection Port Cover $15.99 + Gas Tube $16.14 + Pinned Gas Block $44.95 = $813.92 Total Not Including Shipping + Tax
YOUR PRICE: Barrel $250 + Rail $250 + Upper Receiver $75 + Ejection Port Cover $8 + Gas Tube $12 + Pinned Gas Block $40 = $635 Shipped Total
- PRIMARY ARMS 5X PRISM – SLX 5X GEN III ACSS 5.56 AURORA RETICLE with Killflash: Brand new.
Sells for $329.99 Scope + $30 Killflash New, Your Price is $280 + $15 = $295 Shipped
submitted by Saltiest_Sailor to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]


2023.05.25 16:46 RadicalEd4299 Ideas for 25% off promotion

So we all know that there's a million exclusions for the 25% coupon this weekend. Instead of just moaning about it, here's a lost of things I found that might be interesting to folks and are NOT excluded:
  1. Icon tools
  2. Quinn: tool set, torque wrenches, ratcheting qrenches
  3. Paint (and garden) sprayers
  4. Chicago Electric tools. I know they're the cheap stuff, but theres a couple of potentials, like the tile saw, vibratory/tumble polishers, and maybe the plasma cutter (it's not a "welder", right? Right?)
  5. Central Pneumatics; notably the abrasive blasters, cabinet, air impact wrench, and retractable air hose
  6. Solar panels
  7. Extension cables
  8. Ladders and scaffolding
  9. One Stop Gardens, notably greenhouses (mind the ratings), steel 'wagon, rolling work seat, flagpole, low voltage transformer
  10. Pumps
  11. Electric motors
  12. Folding wagon
  13. Hoses (air and water), including retractable
  14. Haul-master; trailers, truck rack, drywall hoist, ramps, chain hoists, haulers, beam trolley, appliance dolly
  15. Portland, chippeshredder and power washer
  16. Cen-tech: battery chargejump starter, inspection camera, battery tester
  17. Ames: thermal camera, inspection camera, clamp on ammeter, multimeter
  18. Doyle: vises, anvil, tube bender, rivet nut setter,
  19. Central Forge: vises, anvils
  20. Vacuum pumps
  21. HVAC manifold
  22. Pittsburg automotive: electric hoist, 10 ton hydraulic kit, shop cranes, oil extractor, tubing roller, maybe motorcycle lift (it's not a "cart" or "jack", in my book at least :p), tool sets, engine stands, hydraulic punch driver kit, roller chair, stool, tap and die sets, creeper seats
  23. Daytona: hydraulic body repair kit, vehicle dollies, engine stand, creeper
  24. Badland: winches
  25. Warrior: cobalt bit index set
  26. Inverters
  27. Drain cleaneaugers
  28. Metal detector
  29. Earthquake: impacts and ratchets, hose reel
  30. Fischer: hoists
  31. Baxter: air sanders
  32. Nail guns
  33. Welding blanket
  34. Welding helmets
  35. Apache cases
  36. Braun: work lights 37: Cobra security cameras
  37. Chief: air tools
  38. Fasten-strong: pallet of nails, anyone?
  39. Roadstrong: LED light bars
  40. Storehouse: parts racks
  41. Us general: locker (not a "chest" or "cabinet", right?)
  42. Viking car batter jumpers, Chargers, testers
  43. Zurich OBD2 scanners
What are you guys gunning for? Anything else worth mentioning?
submitted by RadicalEd4299 to harborfreight [link] [comments]


2023.05.25 01:36 simpleboye Why my front tire lug nuts looks outward compared to rear tires after I changed my tire and torqued with torque extension bar (75 ft lbs) impact gun.

Why my front tire lug nuts looks outward compared to rear tires after I changed my tire and torqued with torque extension bar (75 ft lbs) impact gun. submitted by simpleboye to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2023.05.24 22:46 Ok_Relief_6549 Using dies on studs

Good afternoon,
Won’t play the blame game but the wife was helping me change tires, I’ll leave it at that.
1 stud ended up getting cross threaded from start to finish, it didn’t look terrible but a new lug nut would not thread on, only the 1 that was used to cross thread.
I was going to change the stud, but it’s a 18 RAM 1500 and the backer plate / dust shield behind the parking brake prevents the stud from coming out, the solution is to drain the diff and pull the axle.
I used a 14 x 1.5” die head on the stud and worked the thread, I think overall it came out pretty good.
Now a new lug nut threads on nicely and I can easily apply the 130 ft/lb of torque as required by the manufacture.
I’ve attached photos of the thread, do you think I’m in the clear or I’ll be pulling an axle over 1 stud in the near future.
submitted by Ok_Relief_6549 to mechanic [link] [comments]


2023.05.24 21:46 leafyisherem8 Lug nuts fell off on freeway

So I change my strut the other day before a long road trip and when I was about an hour out my front end drivers side started making noises so I pulled over and checked it out all but 1 lug nut was halfway or more out on the studs and I know they were torqued to 100 ftlb I wentto an auto part store and got new ones torqued ‘‘em down and since then have had no issues and I check the torque every 20 or so miles any idea what this could be? It’s a 2010 Malibu lt
submitted by leafyisherem8 to Cartalk [link] [comments]


2023.05.24 18:54 Saltiest_Sailor [WTS] MOVING SALE - G$/DD 16" LW CHF CL Midgas Upper / Cloud Rein 2.0 / PA 5X Prism 5.56 ACSS Aurora / HMB Reinforced Cam Pin Nitride AR15 BCG / CH Precision FN Pistol ACRO Plate / Manta MLOK Rail Panels / Aero M4E1 Barrel Nuts / Meprolight Tru-Dot AR15 Tritium Rear Sight Replacement / ESEE 3 Sheath

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/1tN05D9
- Payment Methods That I Accept: PayPal Friends and Family, Zelle, or Venmo Friends Payments.
- I DO NOT Accept PayPal Goods and Services or Venmo Goods and Services Payments.
- If the Payment Provider asks that you put a note, just put food emojis. No firearms/firearms accessories related notes.
EVERYTHING MUST GO, IF SOMETHING ISN'T MARKED AS SOLD SHOOT YOUR SHOT WITH AN OFFER.
//////////////////////// ITEM(S): ////////////////////////
- HM Defense AR-15 5.56/.223 HMB Battle Bolt Carrier Group: Brand New. 9310 Steel Bolt / 4340 Hardened Steel Cam Pin / Nitride Black Finish
Sells for $119.95 New. Your Price is $90 Shipped
- C and H Precision FN 509, FN 510, and FN 545 Aimpoint ACRO Plate: Brand new.
Sells for $64.95 New, Your Price is $40 Shipped
- Meprolight Tru-Dot AR15 Tritium Rear Sight Replacement: Good condition.
Sells for $64.99 New, your price is $25 Shipped SOLD
- Aero M4E1 Enhanced Upper Barrel Nuts: Both brand new.
$15 Shipped Each - 2 Available
- FDE Manta Heat Resistant MLOK Rail Panels - 3 packs of 3 sets of panels: Brand new.
Sells for $19.95 Each New, Your Price for 3 packs of 3 sets of panels is $35 Shipped SOLD
- Geissele 13.5" DDC MK8 + Daniel Defense 16" Midlength Gas Lightweight Cold Hammer Forged Chrome Lined Barrel + Aero Precision FDE Upper Receiver + Aero Precision Melonite Gas Tube + Pinned BCM 0.750" Low Profile Gas Block + NDZ Performance FDE Cerakoted Ejection Port Cover: Great condition.
Around 500 rounds. Some carbon buildup on end of barrel which can be removed with a CLP soak or some form of Carb-out. There is a small chip in the cerakote on the ejection port cover but you should be rattle-canning this upper anyway.
Gas block pinning done by D. Wilson Mfg. Barrel nut is torqued down to correct Geissele specs using Aeroshell 33 anti-seize grease. The rails crossbolts and set screws are secured with Loctite GO2 Gel/Glue (Heat Resistant Silicone-Based Loctite similar to Blue Loctite for a thread-locking capacity comparison).
IF BOUGHT NEW: Barrel $322.00 + Rail $316.89 + Upper Receiver $97.95 + Ejection Port Cover $15.99 + Gas Tube $16.14 + Pinned Gas Block $44.95 = $813.92 Total Not Including Shipping + Tax
YOUR PRICE: Barrel $250 + Rail $250 + Upper Receiver $75 + Ejection Port Cover $8 + Gas Tube $12 + Pinned Gas Block $40 = $635 Shipped Total
- PRIMARY ARMS 5X PRISM – SLX 5X GEN III ACSS 5.56 AURORA RETICLE with Killflash: Brand new.
Sells for $329.99 Scope + $30 Killflash New, Your Price is $280 + $15 = $295 Shipped
- Cloud Defensive Rein 2.0 with Arisaka Inline Mount + Vortex Defender Flip Cap: Used, around 300 rounds. No charger included.
This flip cap is better than the 100 concepts flip covers because you can easily change your battery with this on it, while the 100 concepts version does not allow for easy battery changes.
$250 Shipped SOLD
- [RK Custom Kydex Sheath For An ESEE 3 Knife](IMGURLINK): Great condition. Tried once only.
Sells for $43 New, Your price is $20 Shipped SOLD
submitted by Saltiest_Sailor to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]


2023.05.24 18:32 TheBoxBurglar Almost lost a tire to Pep Boys

About 3-4 weeks ago I got a full set of new tires from Pep Boys. Well today it happened. Over the past couple days my rear end has developed a minor clunking. Today it became readily apparent my lug nuts were loose. Pull over to the side or the road lift the car and sure enough 4/5 of the lug nuts are able to be spun by hand. Pull the rim off and my studs are slightly bent. Put the rim back on and torque my wheels to 95 ftlbs, then go around and torque the rest of wheels for safety. Only the one wheel was not torqued properly. Should Pep boys be responsible for replacing my rear axle? (Studs are on the axle).
TL:DR Pep Boys didn't torque one rear wheel properly, and bent the studs on the axle, minimal damage to the rim itself. How do I hold them responsible?
P.S. I have never been advised to come in for a re-torque at any shop I've gone to for tires. Let alone in this instance at this pep boys
submitted by TheBoxBurglar to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]