Toro timecutter 5000 oil filter

I’m (30M) looking for some advice really after a few sleepless nights. For context I’m on a very average maybe slightly below UK average salary, I can walk to work within an hour or so if I have to and have done so before. My car is really on its last legs, it’s 19 years old and has served me well for that last 5 years or so. But the repair bills have rocketed to well above the value of the car, making it near impossible to save any money along with the price of everything else, it’s doubtful to make it through MOT (soon) and it just doesn’t start first time every-time. (Added context I do basic stuff like oil changes, filter replacement and brake pad changes myself, it’s in the garage for tasks well out my skill set) I could probably live without a car if it wasn’t for my son (1), me and mom are separated and she moved half way across the UK. He stays with me on weekends and we meet halfway for drop offs but that’s a 200 mile round trip. I’ve looked at public transport to meet, it’s not my travel time I’m worried about, it’s my young lad being stuck on trains and buses for hours on end. Even at the offer of payment she wouldn’t run him both ways each weekend, not only is the mileage huge but she’s self employed and is often so busy I pick my lad up from her parents. I don’t have a great credit score to get a finance deal due to silly mistakes in my teens and early twenties that I’ve spent the last 4-5 years correcting. I surely can’t be the only one in this kind of situation with the current climate right now ? Any advice from those who have gone through similar would be greatly appreciated, I’ve never posted on Reddit before, I’ve seen some great responses to other users and I guess I can’t keep talking to myself forever, I scared myself earlier when I was sat here reasoning with those who turn to crime, I just couldn’t risk loosing my boy.
Thanks in advance
E

Bmw 2012 f30 3 series

Hi all, i've noticed lately that my oil pressure has been rather low when hot idle. Usually when driving it hits 45 and while hot idle sits at 30 but lately its been sitting at ab 15 hot idle and i have to be pressing pretty hard on the gas for it to reach 45 or it will be at 45 until the gears shift and drop down to 30. There are no leaks coming from the oil filter housing and I havent been able to get a good look at the oil pump to check that out. It looks like there is a leak coming from the oil circulation tube so that could also be a reason for low oil pressure but I make sure to check my oil regularly clean up the leak site and refill oil when needed until im able to fix the tube leak. Please LMK if you have an idea's it will be greatly appreciated as this is my daily driver.
Edit: I failed to mention what car I drive which is probably the most important thing lol, I drive a 1979 mercedes benz w123 coupe, its a diesel and non turbo

If anyone can share some tutorials and/or examples on how to perform a retention analysis over a data set of 54 months that would be great, thanks
Data Set

The car I'm looking to buy is a Kia, but it's being sold by a Hyundai dealership. Someone traded it in for another vehicle. It's been on the road for 22 months and has less than 15k miles on it. Looks and drives like new. My understanding is that it's still under Kia's warranty of 5 years / 60k miles, and the carfax is clean, showing one private owner in my area and oil/filter change at 8k miles. So my biggest concern is if the car was in an accident and somehow the damage was not reported. The price is about $500 below KBB.
Getting the car to a mechanic is a bit of a hassle. Mechanics in my area are booked 1-2 weeks in advance. The dealer will not hold the car for that long (nor should they, as I know most buyers will not require a PPI). I guess my question is, should I buy it without PPI or should I insist on getting it inspected?
Thanks in advance.

I have a 1994 DeVille with the 4.9 and it seems to idle slightly weird and it usually takes about 2 cranks to start. Its got 89k on it and has new oil, new oil filter, and air filter but that's about it. The performance on it is fine. I'm pretty sure everything in that engine is original except for the belt and power steering area. The previous owner also only ran mid grade instead of premium in it so that might have cuased some issues. Do u guys recommend I do anything to prolong it's life because other then a bit of a weird idle it runs great. I think it just might need new spark plugs but if u guys could recommend anything that be great.

So this all started at the beginning of spring when i tried to start my mower for the first time and got nothing. Did a full tune up, drained all fluids, cleaned carb, new gas, new oil, new spark plug, new air filter. NOTHING! Replaced carb entirely. It starts and runs, now we are getting somewhere. Start mowing and a few minutes later it dies. More research, check gas cap for clogged vent, seems fine, gas isn’t over filled. More research, drills hole in gas cap for more venting. Same result, buy new cap, again more of the same, starts, runs for a couple minutes and dies. Please help before I go drop a grand on an Ego.

Hi mechanics, I'm having a bad day...
My 2014 Insignia has a mystery problem with only symptoms and so far, no solutions. My local garage has tried to solve it, but they are now stuck and have handed it back to me.
The symptoms:
It will randomly lose acceleration. This causes stalling at lower gears and engine braking at higher speeds. I can catch it with the clutch to prevent it hopping like I'm hitting pot holes. I can occasionally, but not always, accelerate through the jumps and it will sometimes push through. If it starts misbehaving, changing in and out of the same gear seems to help (maybe). It can also infrequently seem fine for a few miles.
The car drives and starts first time (although it turns over for slightly longer than normal). Reverse works fine.
Attempted fixes:

• DPF additive to clean it out.
• Replaced fuel filter
• Replaced fuel rail sensor

Unrelated recent work:

• Replaced oil pickup seal
• Replaced timing belt
• Replaced water pump
• Wheel alignment + oil change

Car details:

• Year: 2014
• Make: Vauxhall
• Model: Insignia CDTI
• Mileage: 106,000
• Engine size 2L Diesel
• Transmission Type: Manual

Has anyone got any ideas for next steps please? I don't fancy driving everywhere backwards.

My 2.5 engine has a really low oil pressure. Previous owner replaced the oil pump, filter and oil - didn’t work. Then my mechanic found out that crankshaft bearings were worn out and replaced almost everything - all bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets, etc. After a proper engine rebuild there is still no oil pressure! Like what the heck? Please tell me there is something else that my mechanic didn’t think of?

136k, this has the fb25 engine. paid $6100. changed the bushings and links for the stabilizers front and rear, also spark plugs, air filter, all fluids incl. atf and both front and rear diff. fluids. three drain and refills on the atf with oem subaru atf fluid. cleaned the sensors on the air box and changed out the pcv. thats about it. runs good, showing 23.7 mpg. this is after battery disconnects, so i'll see what happens with that. been checking oil, and i'm at 2800k and its bare barely budged, happy about that as i read these use oil, maybe it had the short block work done, carfax is vague about the repairs. so far so good, price the cam seals leak slightly on the left side, but valvoline maxlife seems to be slowing that down and no drips on the sensors up there, gonna leave it. any known issues with these?

Hey guys,
I have a fridge with an ice cube maker. Since there's no water line nearby, we chose a model with a storage tank (about one gallon or 4 liters) that is inside the fridge and is kept cold.
Unfortunately, we were a bit careless in the beginning. We filled the storage tank from a filter pitcher, so the water probably already had a lot of bacteria. We didn't change the water often enough and didn't run the system dry in the winter when we barely use it.
After a year or so, we realized that the ice cubes smelled a bit like old socks when they were melting, so we ran some sodium hypochlorite solution through the system, let it sit for a day and flushed with clean water. That was only a temporary fix though, a few weeks later we had the same smell again.
I suspected that there was a biofilm issue, so I did some research. From what I read, chlorine dioxide is supposed to be better at removing biofilm so I started using that instead. I feel like the effect lasted longer than before, but eventually we got stinky ice cubes again.
The water now comes from a direct-flow RO system (no storage tank) that is used daily and gets regular filter changes. For a while, I considered adding small amounts of chlorine dioxide to the water in the reservoir permanently, but I just can't stand the taste. I bought a silver sponge that is supposed to release silver ions into the water to keep it sanitary, and I think it helped a little, but not permanently. May also be snake oil, I don't know.
Now I think I probably never managed to get completely rid of the biofilm. I've read that it's very difficult to do without mechanical scrubbing. I can take out the tank and clean it with a sponge to remove any biofilm, but I can't do the same with the pipes that disappear inside the machine. Somewhere in line, there's also a pump that moves the water from the reservoir to the ice cube tray.
Is there a better way to remove biofilm from a surface that can't be cleaned mechanically? Would it help to use hot water? Are there other chemicals that work better?
I figure if I can completely remove the biofilm, then change the water frequently and maybe add that silver sponge, it could work out.
Thanks a lot in advance for any advice!

Drz400s with supermoto conversion! Super excited for this bike as it is my first, and I honestly cannot find anything wrong with it. 2005 with just over 5000 miles on it. Paid $2800 for it, the guy gave me all factory plastics, 4 oil filters, chain, bike stand, and original manual, and all service records.

Hi guys,
I am about to do my first maintenance and wanted to order an oil filter. I got the Ninja 400 2023 ABS.
I guess the model year is too new and no fitting oil filters are displayed to me on various parts pages when I search by the bike model.
Probably oil filters for other Kawasaki models fit on my bike as well? If so, which ones?
Thank you very much.

Does anyone else hate when a non brand vehicle pulls in the drive? I work at Toyota and get so vexed when a non Toyota pulls in. Especially if we gotta wait for a filter or oil. Thoughts?

I needed some input on dealer and service. I am at 6200 mi. and don't feel like dealing with driving waiting for longer than I can do it at home. If I opt to not go in for their free service will I harm my chance regarding drivetrain issues in the future? Thanks in advance
Past History: Dealer Preformed Break-In Oil Change: ~959 mi. 2nd Oil Change: 4300 mi. (Did this myself used genuine filters, SN PLUS/(GF6A) etc.)