80 gallon electric water heater residential

Need help figure out something!
My goal is to set up greenhouse farm as close as possible to my house or primary residence in Charlotte North Carolina.
Agricultural land - the land that is zoned for agriculture. is it cheaper than residential, or commercial,
Building a greenhouse - on what kind of property example outside city limit, agricultural land, etc. would it be easier to get permits to build greenhouse
Outside city limit - what it means and what are the benefits
Outside city limit - what it means and what are the benefits
Airbnb - can I buy 3 acre property on which there is a house that I can Airbnb and keep the rest of the land for farming. I am thinking of this as a income generator on the investment during the earlier phase of business.
Financing - are there any special kind of loan for buying agricultural property, or any other government incentives
Listing - is agricultural property listed on MLS or are there other place to check for such property Workplace set up - if the property does not have a house on it I want to be able to put temporary work area like a container home, RV home, for water I can build well or use rainwater harvesting, how about electricity, sewage, etc.
Real estate agent - are there real estate agent that specialize in agricultural property, who are also agents that can help me get the approval for building the greenhouse. Agents that are local to North Charlotte region that might know of property listings that are not on the Internet. Can I work with more than one agent to find a property?

I’ve only been in the trades for a few years, started out working residential for a GC doing full remodels, we did everything in-house so framing, carpentry, electrical, plumbing, etc. I got a lot of experience from seasoned veterans for 2 years doing this. Then moved into more specifically doing plumbing and installing water meter systems for a small-ish contractor that contracts with local municipalities to upgrade their meter systems. I enjoy the work and it pays well, but the company is shit, management are assholes, and they work us very hard.
Since I started with them 6 months ago, I’ve kinda moved up to managing a couple small projects, managing 3-5 man teams, helping them out when they break shit, etc. It’s alright, not bad work, not too hard, a little stressful at times because management gets on my ass about quotas and such, but it’s ok. I wouldn’t mind sticking with it.
Well, just a few weeks ago, I got put on a new project for a client that is a massive, publicly-traded $400M company that essentially sells these projects to municipal clients all over the country. I clicked SUPER well with the project manager, and his team. The whole time I’ve worked with them, we’ve gotten along great and worked well together. He told my company that if they want to continue doing business together, he wants me to manage all of his projects. My company jumped at this and offered me a slight raise and some overtime, etc.
Yesterday, the guy goes “you know what… why don’t I just poach you from them and have you be my in-house CM?”
It seems like an amazing opportunity, basically I would oversee the boots-on-the-ground and the nuts and bolts of about 2-3 projects a month, all over the country. This company has been around for over 60 years, has massive room for upward mobility into a corporate setting, would give me a salary that’s way higher than what I currently make, benefits, unlimited PTO, 401k matching, and even a pension-type program. It seems like it could be a career company. My only issue is that I am nervous that I’m under-qualified and honestly don’t know what to expect as a CM. I’ve basically just been a small time manager so far.
I’m really good at bullshitting and faking it till I make it, but idk. I guess my question is, for any other CMs out there, what is the scope of your work and the stress level involved?

Looking to swap out two 20 year old systems to duel fuel Lennox heat pump/propane/AC units. This unit qualifies for the credit according to the installer
I’ve lurked on here to see other posts on the credits but haven’t seen any with this specific question.
Looks like according to the IRS/energy star website I could be eligible for up to $3200 worth of credits as they split heat pumps and air conditioners into two separate categories with separate limits.
How I read it is $2000 for the heat pump and $1200 ($600 each) for AC units. Any thoughts on this or would it be considered double dipping?
Wording on site below:
In addition to limits on the amount of credit you can claim for any particular equipment installation or home improvement, there are annual aggregate limits. The overall total limit for an efficiency tax credit in one year is $3,200. This breaks down to a total limit of $1,200 for any combination of home envelope improvements (windows/doors/skylights, insulation, electrical) plus furnaces, boilers and central air conditioners.
Any combination of heat pumps, heat pump water heaters and biomass stoves/boilers are subject to an annual total limit of $2,000.
https://www.energystar.gov/about/federal_tax_credits/central_air_conditioning

Sorry if this is a N00b question but how do y’all manage to keep distilled water on hand? I have a rather demanding job and I live in a smaller city where there aren’t 24 hour stores (or none near me that would sell distilled water). I ran out of distilled water the day before yesterday and have just used tap water. Our tap water is supposed to be famously good - hot water heaters last longer than expected etc - but even so, I saw residue in my tank today and now I’m all worried I’m ruining my CPAP. Right now my best plan on how to deal with this is to order a Target delivery to drop off some water while I’m at work, and I need to think of some other stuff to buy to make the Target order worth it. Should I just regularly keep an emergency gallon(s)?

I posted a few days ago about my betta with torn fins, red dots on fins, white abrasions on his body, lethargy, and increasingly visible rapid gilling.
I dosed him with kanaplex and he is doing worse since then. Are there any medications I can turn to from here, or is this it? If there is nothing else, should he be removed from the tank and put in a cup so he can surface for air easily?
Parameters: 10 gallon 3 bamboo plants and 1 betta log Fluval HOB 3 stage filter for a 30 gal + flow stopper so he doesn’t get blown around Lava rock substrate (will be changed) Within limits for ammonia, nitrate, nitrites. Tank temp is ~ 78 No tank mates 25% water change every 2 weeks Eheim heater
Changed all the water 4 days ago out of desperation. Tank itself and tank ornaments are cycled with aged healthy slime layer.
He is 2 years old. Nerite snail was removed 2 months ago because he hates him.
He lays on the bottom and looks very unwell. Can surface and run from the evil kitchen ladle when I put it in the tank. I’m not even sure if I could catch him to put him in a cup - it would require purchase of a net.

I have a 1000 CF (10x10x10) grow tent in my basement that I am trying to dial in to optimal grow conditions.
Knowns: Mushrooms generate a decent amount of CO2, and I have a 24 year old and a 170lb dog in my basement, which also contributes to the CO2. With no cold air return, all CO2 in the house aggregates in the basement as there are 2 vents in the ceiling.
Ideal conditions are: CO2: < 800ppm Temp: Between 60° and 70° F (lower end is better). Humidity: 90-95% Tent keeping negative pressure so spores don't go into the basement.
My basement ambient is: CO2:~1300ppm Temp: Between 65° and 73°F Humidity: ~53%
Currently, I have a homemade humidifier capable of taking the tent from 80% Humidity to 95% Humidity in about 2 minutes. This pushes air via a 4" fan that pulls ambient basement air into my tent. The humidifier kicks on when the tent hits 80% Humidity.
My tent has a 6" exhaust fan that exhausts to the outside whenever CO2 hits 1200ppm. It runs until the CO2 hits 900 ppm. This results in my exhaust fan running almost nonstop as it is pulling ambient basement air into the tent, which spikes the tent CO2 to 1300+ppm and then slowly lowers the CO2 as it slowly exhausts basement air, pulling in lower CO2 air from under the basement door (rest of the house is normally around 500 ppm).
I have been chewing on this for awhile now trying to figure out the best route forward and am hoping for some advice as I am no hvac specialist.
My various thoughts (and their problems as I see them):

1. Run the intake to my 4" humidifier fan outside and grab low CO2 air directly from outside.

Pros: Would solve CO2 problem.
Cons: Lose benefit of conditioned basement air that is already at a good Temp, would need to condition the air somehow to proper Humidity and temp to not shock mushrooms in midwest weather (100° F heat on some days, sub 0 Temp in winters on some days).

1. Add cold air return to basement to better distribute air through the house and lower basement CO2.

Pro: Easy to do
Cons: Would increase ambient basement Temp resulting in the need to cool the basement or tent similar to above. Would increase CO2 in other areas of home. Don't know how big of an impact this would have overall. Don't know how badly this would impact cold air returns around the house. Need to check for CO backdraft from water heater chimney (have a CO meter and basement is open/unfinished so this shouldn't be an issue).

1. Add an hrv or erv system to my basement

Pros: ?
Cons: Don't know enough about HRV/ERV to know if this is the right approach. Cost...
Unknowns: Why the hell does it take so long for CO2 levels to drop when my exhaust fan is running. It is a 6" fan that can move 800 CFM. The tent is 1000 CF. Even when I have the tent door open and airflow is not restricted, it takes a long time to lower the CO2 levels to 900 PPM.
I understand I am cycling basement air as well, but at 800 cfm I should have done a full air exchange in under 10m, let alone just lowering values to an acceptable range.
When most people aren't home, sometimes the CO2 stabilizes, and the exhaust fan will stay off for around an hour before being triggered from mushroom CO2 generation, but when everyone e is home (6 people, 6 dogs, 1 person and 1 dog as mentioned above in the basement) the exhaust runs nonstop, which makes my humidity and temp cycle like a sine wave.
Any thoughts on the correct approach to hit my targets in this controlled environment?

Hi all, I have a vet appointment this Friday but I wanted to stop by here to see if I could get any feedback.
This is my little man named Salmonella (cuz he looks like a raw chicken). I got him when he was a baby from Petsmart (yes, I know—never again) and he is now approximately 3 and a half years old. This is probably the 4th time he’s had mouthrot, and it was very sneaky this time. It appears he’s all gums on the top of his mouth now. Unfortunately, I didn’t see it until it became super inflamed because there were no exterior scabs. I flushed them last night with the antiseptic solution provided by my vet.
He has been refusing food for about a month now, so he’s been on carnivore care—2 to 1 ratio, as much as I can get him to eat every other day. Gone down from about 62 grams to 55. Lethargic but relatively active—he’s happy to explore when I take him out.
I know husbandry is typically the explanation, but at this point I’m starting to wonder if he has some sort of other condition he inherited from poor breeding practices. The mouth rot always clears up after antibiotics, and then its back a few months later.
He lives in a 20 gallon tank with a 75 wattage light/lamp used during the daytime. He has a Dry warm hide, a humid warm hide, and a cool dry hide. The cage temperature remains between 95° on the warm side to 80°-75° on the cool side. His humid hide stays between 30% to 40%, though it is usually around 25% right before daily misting and 60% immediately after misting. He is on paper towel substrate, though we briefly switched to eco-earth to maintain a more consistent humidity. Unfortunately, he absolutely hated it so we switched it back. I switch out the paper towel every other week, and deep clean the tank and everything inside every other month. The water dish is cleaned weekly. This is how the tank has been for over a year now, and he’s gotten sick 3 times since then. He is having regular (albeit liquid since he’s on carnivore care) bowel movements. I see him drink water about twice a week.
He previously has had 1 eye infection (very minor, cleared up very quickly), 1 pneumonia scare (mild, cleared up with injected antibiotics every 3 days for 5-6 weeks by vet), diagnosed with early signs of MBD (has not gotten worse since showing initial signs and adjusting care). Everything else has been the reoccurring mouth rot.
Some info to know about him: Slight kink in the end of his tail, likely from proper heating during incubation, he’s quite small—his tail and head seem to be improportional to his body (compared to other, healthy leopard gecko), he has a really hard time shedding, and almost always requires assistance. His gait is fine but he is not very strong.
Anyone have any ideas? I’m happy to answer any questions. I just want my little guy to feel okay.

Working in residential townhome. Do the intake and exhaust PVC vents for a tankless water heater that terminate through a drywall ceiling and go into the attic need these firestop rings/clamps on them?
Example: https://www.amazon.com/Holdrite-HF-PC-0200-HydroFlame-Firestop-Colladp/B0B5HTZ1J4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2WNU32OEIVQKO&keywords=firestop%2Bpvc%2Bpipe%2Bcollar&qid=1686105106&sprefix=firestop%2Bpvc%2Bpipe%2Bcolla%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-1&th=1
I'm in California. I thought I could just use a hole saw, go through the ceiling, and use fire resistant foam to fill in the gaps between the pipe and the drywall hole. Then, cover with escutcheon plate

Working in residential townhome. Do the intake and exhaust PVC vents for a tankless water heater that terminate through a drywall ceiling and go into the attic need these firestop rings/clamps on them?
Example: https://www.amazon.com/Holdrite-HF-PC-0200-HydroFlame-Firestop-Colladp/B0B5HTZ1J4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2WNU32OEIVQKO&keywords=firestop%2Bpvc%2Bpipe%2Bcollar&qid=1686105106&sprefix=firestop%2Bpvc%2Bpipe%2Bcolla%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-1&th=1
I'm in California. I thought I could just use a hole saw, go through the ceiling, and use fire resistant foam to fill in the gaps between the pipe and the drywall hole. Then, cover with escutcheon plate.

I had a 5 gallon kit tank sitting around so about 8 months ago I set it up on a dresser near my window, just tossed random plant clippings into it and filled it with water, I pay zero attention to the tank, never tested the water or added food, I never turn the light on, no filter no heater, and the only care it gets is topping the water off every couple months when I notice it's getting kinda low.
Lo and behold today as I was over in that corner of my room I looked into the tank and found a full grown super deep red cherry shrimp.
It's probably not a surprise to people who keep shrimp when they manage to hitch rides between tanks, but I'm just amazed by the survivability of this little guy, the tank is directly next to a window and my insulation kinda sucks, so the water was definitely super cold during the winter months, and yet this dude not only managed to survive but he/she's huge.
With this revelation, I've just added an internal filter into the tank with old media, and some drift wood for him/her to graze on, I'll probably add some shrimp from my main tank in with them in the near future, but I'm a tad concerned about the temp difference, it's a full 10 degrees colder than my other tanks.
Apologies for the rant, but this is probably the most exciting thing shrimp/fish related that's happened to me in months and I had to share.

TLDR: Hot water tanks insulation is wet at the bottom of the upper element. No visible leaks from anywhere.
Hey all I'm looking for some insight or advice about my hot water heater. I installed a brand new AO Smith 50 gallon electric hot water heater on memorial day (8 days ago) and it was working perfectly fine. Had great hot water and pressure and had zero leaks coming from all valves and connections. Thought all was fine but then a few hours ago I went to wash my hands and I had essentially no hot water pressure. I went down stairs and my tank was beeping and gave the error code for a leak detection. I shut off the power and noticed my automatic leak detection valve had closed. There was no water on the outside of the tank and all fitting were dry. That's when I noticed a small droplet of water around the top of the upper element cover. I removed the cover and discovered that the bottom part of the insulation was soaked and if I squeezed the insulstion, I had a good amount of water in there. There are still zero visible leaks from the outside and all fittings, the drain valve, the relief valve, the elements themselves, and everything else is bone dry. They water was warm if that detail matters. The only thing I can think is that it's sometype of small leak from a manufacturing defect maybe. I am not a trained plumber but I felt comfortable putting it in given my experience with past simple plumbing work. I followed the installation directions to a T and again it was working perfectly this past week. Does anyone have any insight on if it could be something else other than a manufacturing defect? Any help is appreciated as I am at a lost and think I just need to call the manufacturer at this point.

So unfortunately I bought some fish from my local Petsmart that I’m pretty sure we’re sick and all of my fish died suddenly from ich. I took all the water out of my aquarium, threw out all the gravel, fake plants, and decor. I soaked the tank in 8 parts water 1 part bleach and left for 15 minutes before I rinsed it thoroughly and sat to air dry. I did the same thing to the filter and I bought brand new cartridges for the filter and I bought a brand new heater. I’m buying everything new just because I feel like it would be more sanitary as I want to be sure that I am doing my very best to not start out with a contaminated tank again. My tank is only 20 gallons. I’ve got the water in there now with the water conditioner and tomorrow the new filter system will be here so I can start running that. I also have the new heater in the aquarium now. So did I do everything right? Anything anyone suggests that I should additionally do? I had only had my aquarium since December and to have this happen was so upsetting. I had the original fish I had bought initially up and then I decided to get some from Petsmart and that’s when things got ugly and being new to this hobby I had no idea what was going on. So now what? How long until I can add fish after I get the filter back on there?